Delicious holiday memories
KARLA: When my grandparents were still around, our holiday menus were dictated by either my late grandfather Joe Reyes or my late grandmother Imelda “Meldy” Reyes.
Lolo Joe enjoyed the meaty US Angus rib-eye roasts while Lola Meldy mostly fell back on her Spanish favorites such as callos, lengua estofada, and paella. Those were the days when we used to celebrate as an entire family, and where my grandparents would require a talent show from us children, having our helpers be the judges to be impartial. The days when we would all play around under the table after dinner. We would eagerly stay up past our usual bedtime and wait for midnight just to open gifts by the Christmas tree, which was, of course, the highlight of the evening. And for New Year’s, that meant a fireworks display from our garden and an unlimited supply of watusi: at least one whole box per kid. Lastly, where there was an overflowing supply of our favorite Christmas treats. By treats, I don’t mean candy canes and chocolate chip cookies. We grew up with having midnight snacks of The Plaza Ham, smothered with raclette or Swiss cheese fondue, and wine. These were my family’s traditions.
In present day, it’s been just Mom and me. We celebrate smaller, if at all. There were some years that we’d go straight to bed from work, unable to move from exhaustion. I usually come home and whip up the easiest thing I can think of—a quick salad, rib-eye steak, or salpicao and a pasta. Quiet, simple, easy. This year, my uncle, who just moved in with us this year, will be joining us, and we’ve also invited other family members who may be spending the holidays alone. I suppose our Christmas and New Year’s traditions have evolved through time, but there are things that will never leave our table.
MILLIE: As far as I can recall, it was always a toss-up between a whole roast turkey with delicious stuffing made of chestnuts and prunes, lots of cranberry and gravy, or a prime rib roast cooked à point served with potatoes au gratin and creamed spinach. Dad would have an upsized turkey sandwich stuffed with thin slices of white turkey meat and oozing with gravy. I would have it two ways, first with some rice topped with turkey slices and drowned with gravy and for my second take, a dinner roll with butter, turkey slices dipped in gravy and cranberry in between.
For New Year’s Eve, there was an array of everything round like seedless grapes, ponkans, chestnuts and gold and silver chocolate coins on the table believed to bring good luck and prosperity!
When Mom had her way, and we would celebrate with her Spanish favorites, there would always be old-fashioned Sans Rival, Brazo de Mercedes, and Food for the Gods from her Auntie Puring Lorenzo, our favorite holiday staple. I am glad that her granddaughter, Lisa Lorenzo Uy, has made it a business, and it’s now available all year round. Other family favorites would be the famous tortitas of Tita Marot Fernandez, which Karla and I naughtily hide from other family members! Hahahaha! Also, the annual oatmeal chocolate chip cookies from the Gavino’s which are as precious as gold!
To add to our holiday dessert table, I would always bake my traditional butter cake and Christmas prune cake, recipes I inherited from my mom’s sister, Ching Mendoza.
KARLA: Our discovery in recent years was the Sans Rival of Gay Vazquez. My mom’s sister, Tita Dorcie, sent us a small piece to try. It was such a tiny sample that Mom and I had just one bite each. We felt so deprived that we ordered our own Sans Rival for just the two of us. Haha! It has been one of our go-to cakes ever since. We’ve always had it frozen and crunchy, however, leaving it out awhile gives it a chewier texture as the meringue softens with the buttercream.
Growing up, I used to loooooove the egg white or meringue of brazo de mercedes. My mom used to give me all her whites. I would watch her scrape off all the yellow parts oozing out of the brazo. Little did I know that the yellow custard or yema part was actually the best part! When I learned to get my own food, I think I quickly discovered that I was being deprived all my life! Haha! My Tita Maryjo always supplied the brazo de mercedes during our family events. Not sure where she got it from since she always kept it a secret but we have been ordering brazo from Forget Me Not by chef Pixie Sevilla. They have now rebranded to La Brazorria dela Sevil, catering specifically with an entire line of brazo de mercedes. It features different sizes and flavors such as ube brazo, salted egg brazo, and even sugar-free brazo! However, nothing compares to the original, 50-year-old heirloom recipe of the Brazo de Remedios.
MILLIE: After dinner, we would serve snacks in between as we await the midnight revelry and there would always be an abundance of assorted cheeses like Tete de Moine or kesong puti to go with pan de sal. We would cook bibingka and puto bumbong and serve with thick hot chocolate or salabat.
Wines and champagne would be overflowing as we sat around the living room playing games, exchanging gifts, singing or just chatting.
These traditions have changed drastically for us since my parents have gone on. While most families continue with their holiday traditions by having potluck celebrations, my siblings, sadly, have preferred to celebrate with their own in-laws. In a way, Karla and I are relieved as we have no helper at home and dread entertaining and washing dishes after. Hahahaha! So we opt to join friends who invite us to celebrate with them instead.
KARLA: We are thankful for friends who treat us like family, especially the Meer clan. Our families have been friends for four generations. Mom and I have been adopted throughout the year for their family Sunday lunches, special occasions and even holidays. We’ve even adopted their traditions too, such as the old-fashioned leche flan by Leche.Manila. It was the most smooth, thick and creamy leche flan we’ve ever had, and I’ve ordered a couple for this year's New Year celebration.
MILLIE: Allow us to take this opportunity to wish everyone a blessed New Year filled with love and joy and in the comfort of loved ones.
***
To order Gay Vazquez Sansrival, text 09173010615. For all your brazo de mercedes cravings, message La Brazzoria dela Sevil on Instagram @labrazzoriadelasevil. They are also available on GrabFood. For Food for the Gods, message @food4thegods_by.lorenzo on Instagram. For the creamiest leche flan, message @leche.manila on Instagram, text 09178444526 or email leche.manila@gmail.com.
