The art of stillness: Hakone's onsens, ryokans, and hidden gems

If you are visiting Hakone for a quick trip, consider getting the Hakone Free Pass. This pass covers unlimited rides on eight modes of transportation—including the scenic Hakone Tozan railway and the iconic Hakone ropeway—and discounts at approximately 70 facilities. A round-trip ticket from Shinjuku Station is also included making your travel from Tokyo convenient and hassle-free.

The unlimited ride costs 6,100 yen (P2,348.50) for adults, and 1,100 yen (P423.50) for children.

Stay in a traditional ryokan

One of the highlights of my trip was staying in a ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn, which is not just a lodging but a full-on cultural experience. There are plenty of ryokans in Hakone to choose from whether you’re looking to splurge on a luxury stay or want to keep it more budget-friendly. My friends and I stayed at Sengokuhara Shinanoki Ichinoyu, a mid-range ryokan on the quieter side of town.

Upon arrival, each of us was provided a yukata—a casual Japanese robe—to wear throughout our stay. Our suite came with a private onsen, a natural hot spring bath which is an essential part of traditional Japanese culture and relaxation.

Hakone is home to multiple hot spring sources and there are a number of onsens within the area—both public bathhouses and private ryokan baths alike.

Upon arrival, we were welcomed with a kaiseki dinner, a beautifully crafted multi-course meal so artfully presented that I was truly in awe when it was served. Each dish came in elegant ceramic, making the experience more mindful and immersive.

The next morning, we were again served a kaiseki meal for breakfast to fuel us for the activities ahead.

Sail through Lake Ashi via the Hakone Pirate Cruise

Lake Ashi offers one of Japan’s most unforgettable scenic views and what better way to experience it than aboard the scenic Hakone Pirate Cruise? We started the boat ride at the Togendai port and we sailed around 30 minutes to the Moto-Hakone port. It was unfortunate that it was cloudy during the cruise so Mount Fuji was not visible. Nevertheless, we still enjoyed soaking in the moment.

The Hakone Pirate Cruise is also included in the Hakone Free Pass so you can ride as many times within the validity period.

Make a trip to the Hakone Open Air Museum

Nestled in the scenic hills of Hakone, the Hakone Open Air Museum is Japan’s first open-air museum. The museum’s expansive grounds are home to over 100 outdoor sculptures which are scattered across the beautiful gardens, allowing visitors to experience art and nature at the same time.

A standout piece for me would have to be the Symphonic Sculpture, a tower constructed entirely of stained glass. We climbed this 18-meter tall tower and got rewarded with panoramic views of the museum and surrounding mountains.

Ride the Hakone Ropeway

Taking the Hakone Ropeway is an absolute must when visiting this region. It is a breathtaking experience and a scenic way to go around the town. The ropeway covers around 4 kilometers and has four stops starting from the Sounzan Station and ending at the Togendai Station near Lake Ashi. It is also included in the Hakone Free Pass so no need to worry about getting separate tickets. 

After exploring the Hakone Open Air Museum, we headed to Sounzan station and took the Hakone Ropeway to Owakudani—which, for me, was the most scenic segment of the entire route. Our gondola ascended above a valley filled with trees and rolling green hills and, minutes later, the landscape completely shifted as we passed by the Owakudani Valley. The gondola offers an expansive view of one of Japan’s most active volcanic regions.

Explore Owakudani

If you have limited time and can only choose one location to visit, then Owakudani—which means “The Great Boiling Valley”—should be at the top of your list. Why? Because it’s not every day you get to stroll through an active volcanic zone. From the Hakone Ropeway, you can see steam rising from the ground, and a faint hint of sulfur begins to linger in the air. 

No trip to Owakudani is complete without trying the iconic black eggs, or kuro-tamago. These eggs are boiled in Owakudani’s sulfur-rich springs and the minerals in the water turn the eggshells black. I was curious whether they would taste different but, to my dismay, they’re just your regular hard-boiled eggs. Legend has it, though, that eating one black egg adds seven years to your life. You’ve got nothing to lose—if the legend is not true, at least you’ve had a filling snack. Do it for the experience!

Visit the Hakone Venetian Glass Museum

The Hakone Venetian Glass Museum was just across our ryokan so we made a stop before going back to Tokyo. It’s a fusion of Japanese serenity and Italian artistry and it’s Japan’s first museum dedicated to Venetian glass. Honestly, I didn’t expect much, but upon stepping inside the gate, it felt like I was transported inside the pages of a fairy tale. The first thing that caught my eye was the crystal archway by the garden which was shimmering in the afternoon sun. It was incredibly picturesque with the Hakone mountains as the backdrop. 

Inside the museum, you’ll find a number of intricate Venetian glass art pieces—some dating back to the 15th century—as well as a number of modern works on display. There is also a gift shop where you can buy souvenirs. I took home a necklace with a Murano glass pendant and it was the perfect keepsake to remind me of my wonderful time in Hakone. 

Hakone was a place I never thought of visiting but I’m really happy that I did. Though my stay was short, it offered that peaceful escape from the hustle of daily life—time seemed to slow down and everything felt calm and serene. It was an absolute gem of a trip and is well worth adding to your Japan itinerary.