A dazzling, psychedelic museum that enlightens
BANGKOK—Around 30 km from the city center of Bangkok, in Samut Prakan province, the Erawan Museum lords it over the highway scape with the massive, three-headed bronze elephant that it is named after. At 29 meters in height and 250 tons in weight, the sculpture is double the height of the pink, circular building that serves as a pedestal underneath, an architectural and engineering feat not just to support its head that has to protrude without any pillars, but for its sheer weight that had to be dispersed around the outer ring and roof. This magnificent exterior, however, could still not prepare us enough for what we were about to see inside.
In true horror vacui mode, almost every square inch of surface is filled with ornate embellishment, from painting and sculpture, to gilding and mosaic, referencing every possible religion and aesthetic style. But it’s not just the visual appearance that one has to process since there’s an amalgamation of cultures, art and history while taking flights of fancy into Buddhist, Hindu and Christian iconography, surreal, fantastical imagery and cosmological mythology.
There is a method to the madness, since the museum is themed according to the mythological principles of the Underworld, the Earth and Heaven. The Underworld level, also known as Suvarnabhumi, personified by its snake-like god figure—the naga, the giver of waters and the abundance of Buddhist belief—showcases the ancient artifacts and porcelain from the prized collection of the museum’s founder, Lek Praphai Viriyahphant: Thai Benjarong ceramics and Sangkhalok pottery from Sukhothai, Chinese Ming and Qing vases, Chakri Dynasty tea sets, jade ornaments and furniture.
The Human Earth section is the circular pedestal that supports the elephant, consisting of a two-level hall united by an extraordinary double staircase that leads to “Mount Meru,” the center of the universe where gods and deities reside. In the landing of the stairs is the Boddhisatva Guanyin, representing the enlightened being who foregoes the chance to achieve Nirvana or enter Paradise to help others achieve enlightenment. From here, the staircase divides into a majestically ornate, sweeping double staircase, intricately carved with images of dragons and inlaid with mosaics of Benjarong ceramics.
Four towering pillars support a stained-glass ceiling creation by the German artist Jacob Schwarzkopf, utilizing four colors to encapsulate the essence of the Earth (yellow for earth, white for wind, red for fire and blue for water) and featuring the zodiac and the 12 most important stars.
Upon closer inspection of one of the pillars, we recognized some Christian scenes, which turned out to be stories of Jesus’ works signifying how love for our fellowmen brings salvation.
The other pillars from other religions also had moral themes: The Theravada Buddhism one portrayed enlightenment and the path to Nirvana through the story of the 10th Boddhisatva before the reincarnation of Buddha. For Mahayana Buddhism, compassion and kindness was shown through Guan-in’s life of doing good without expecting anything in return. For Hinduism, freedom from suffering is achieved through Vishnu’s story of joining the war of the righteous against the devils.
Getting to the third level called the Cosmos, we took the elevator, which turned out to be housed by one leg of the elephant above. You can also take the winding staircase, which is contained in the other leg. This is a better way so you can see the mural paintings of gods and goddesses that lead you to the piece de resistance—a cavernous hall that is actually the elephant’s belly but in spiritual terms is the realm of Heaven, located above Mount Meru. The ceiling, also done by Schwarzkopf, is hallucinogenic psychedelia—a visualization of a dreamworld representing the cosmos, featuring moons, clouds, meteors, constellations and a big orange sun.
Relics of Buddha are encased in the room and precious Buddha statues from different periods and parts of Thailand and Asia line the sides of the shrine. The sculptures are comparable to those found in the National Museum and Museum of Buddhist Art: Dvaravati, 8th to 9th century; Loburi, 12th to 13th century; Ayutthaya, 15th to 16th century; Lanna, 16th century, and early Rattakosin, 19th century.
The founder’s interest in arts and culture actually started when he went to university in Shanghai. Born in 1914 into a Chinese businessman’s family in Sampeng, the Chinatown of Bangkok, his studies abroad gave him the chance to travel and accumulate professional knowledge and a profound understanding of the arts, religions, philosophies and cultures. He chose to go back to Thailand when his father fell ill, helping in the family business and eventually meeting his wife, Praphai, who became a partner and inspiration.
As he collected and read about antiques, he realized how precious they were and felt a strong urge to preserve them, inspiring him to build the nearby Ancient City in 1972, a 200-acre, open-air museum of palaces, temples and sculptures—some recreated but others were taken from other places. It’s like our former Nayong Pilipino, allowing you to “see” the whole country in a day.
In 1981, he built the Sanctuary of Truth in northern Pattaya, inspired by his experience of the Cold War era. Seeing how the world was becoming very materialistic, he wanted people to understand the truth in religion and philosophy as well as the message of peace. After the death of his wife in 1992, Lek started making plans for the Erawan Museum to house their prized collections as well as to educate visitors on the various aspects of history, culture and the arts.
He wanted Erawan, considered the master of all elephants in the universe and trusty steed of the god Indra, to be the centerpiece. It was the most appropriate choice. Just as Erawan brings Indra to a different sphere from earth to heaven, visitors are also transported to a celestial realm upon visiting this sanctuary. And just as Indra’s vehicle helps him bring good to the world by bringing water to the heavens to be dispersed down to earth, the museum brings spiritual nourishment and enlightenment to those who seek it.