Francis Libiran apologizes over Inaul fabric controversey
Filipino fashion designer Francis Libiran issued a public apology following criticism over his recent design featuring Inaul, a traditional handwoven textile crafted in Maguindanao.
Libiran acknowledged that his framing was inappropriate, writing, "I got this wrong. In describing Inaul as something I 'weaponized' and made 'dangerous,' I used language that was disrespectful to a living cultural heritage that is not mine to redefine. I also failed to present the piece with the cultural understanding and sensitivity that Inaul deserves."
The designer extended his sincere apology to the Maguindanaon people, Inaul weavers, cultural bearers, the wider Bangsamoro community, and regional BCPCH offices in Maguindanao and Lanao del Sur.
"Whatever my intention, it does not undo the impact of my words or presentation, and I take responsibility for both," he said on Tuesday.
He said that the original post has been removed, promotion of the collection is paused, and he is reaching out to BCPCH and the Maguindanaon cultural representatives "to listen and seek guidance on the appropriate next steps."
"I have spent decades advocating for Filipino artistry because I believe our local craftsmanship deserves to be seen, valued, and celebrated around the world. But I also understand that this purpose must be grounded in respect for the culture and the people behind the traditions I represent," he said.
Libiran said that he hopes this becomes an opportunity for him to "do better."
"I remain committed to using fashion as a bridge; one that brings Filipino creativity and heritage to the world, while striving to better represent the Philippines with the utmost integrity and respect for the communities who have kept these traditions alive," his statement ended.
'Innovation can coexist with tradition'
The controversy started after Libiran posted a photo of a model wearing his creationg accompanied by a caption stating he "stripped off" nostalgia from the Inaul fabric to make it more modern. This drew intense backlash from cultural advocates and the Bangsamoro Commission for the Preservation of Cultural Heritage, which cautioned that the portrayal of the Inaul fabric "diminishes and dishonors its cultural significance."
"Inaul is not merely a fabric, pattern, or material for fashion experimentation. It is a living cultural heritage of the Maguindanaon people, embodying generations of traditional knowledge, craftsmanship, identity, history, and cultural meaning. It deserves to be treated with dignity and respect, particularly when presented to the public as a representation of Filipino and Bangsamoro heritage," they said in a statement last Thursday.
Although BCPCH-LDS recognizes the role of design innovation, artistic expression must not undermine, reduce, or "sensationalize the cultural identity and significance attached to a heritage tradition."
They continued, "innovation can coexist with tradition, but it must be guided by cultural sensitivity, proper acknowledgment, respect for cultural bearers, and a genuine understanding of the heritage being represented."
They called for greater responsibility from the creative industry in using Bangsamoro cultural expressions.
Meanwhile, BCPCH Chairperson Robert Alonto acknowledged Libiran's personal apology while reiterating that the agency spoke out to defend their cultural pride and honor,
"We recognize and appreciate his efforts to acknowledge and address the concern raised," he said.
"Nevertheless, this incident has provided us with an opportunity to reflect on the issues confronting our traditional textiles and, more broadly, our material culture. We are once again reminded that preserving cultural heritage goes beyond safeguarding the physical objects themselves. It also means preserving the values, meanings, histories, and cultural contexts embodied in them," Alonto said.
Moving forward, the BCPCH plans to review existing policies and initiatives, and conduct multi-sectoral consultations with weavers, traditional leaders, designers, and heritage experts.
"Their participation will be essential in developing policies and guidelines that are culturally grounded, responsive to the needs of communities, and supportive of the continued development of our textile traditions," Alonto noted.
