Why is Pork Pastil getting flak? Experts explain
Pastil, a Mindanaoan dish, has gained widespread popularity due to its flavor, affordability, and ease of preparation. Traditionally made with steamed rice, shredded chicken, beef, or fish, and wrapped in banana leaves, pastil has become a culinary staple.
Recently, a controversial trend has emerged online: pork pastil. This change from the traditional recipe has sparked outrage among food enthusiasts and Mindanaoans alike. Critics point out that such a modification constitutes a disrespectful act of cultural appropriation.
Cultural appropriation
John Sherwin Felix, founder of Lokalpedia—an online archive dedicated to Philippine endemic ingredients—explained why reinventing pastil with pork is a form of cultural appropriation.
In his Facebook post, he noted that while pastil is getting more exposure, this success is a “double-edged sword” as other versions do not reflect the dish’s cultural roots. He cited the example of pastil in a bottle, which he said is technically inaccurate as the meat is called kagikit, and it only becomes pastil when it is wrapped with rice in a banana leaf.
“It’s natural for people to adopt parts of a culture from a dominant superpower country/culture,” he said on a separate Facebook post, noting that the issue about Filipino spaghetti or carbonara is not the same with pork pastil, as the former was adopted from a country that has immense influence and exposure.
The pork pastil, meanwhile, originates from a marginalized group, stressing the role of the power dynamics.
“The situation is different when a dominant group or culture takes something from a marginalized one. Power dynamics are crucial in cultural appropriation,” he stressed.
He further explained, “In the Philippine context, the Moros have been struggling for their self-determination, culture, and land for decades. They have been victims of hate and fear because of their religion (Islamophobia). Yet, people from a dominant culture have taken food that evolved and is intertwined with their faith and way of life.”
“People didn’t consider the context and instead commercialized and profited from it, creating a version that is the total opposite of the Moros' core values and beliefs,” he noted.
Felix also noted that the public must consider the availability of halal foods for Muslims residing in the metro and making the pork variant of their staple food makes it harder for them.
“With the proliferation of food that is supposedly Moro and halal, and it becoming haram, it becomes even harder for them. Pork pastil violates their religious practices. On the other hand, the existence of sweet spaghetti in this part of the world doesn’t have the same impact,” he concluded.
‘Cultural awareness and sensitivity’
Mubarak Maliga Tahir, a faculty of Mindanao State University, explained in his Facebook post the cultural significance of the dish, stressing that it is made halal-friendly, which means the animals used underwent proper cleaning and slaughtering procedures, including citing the phrase, “Bismillah” (In the Name of Allah) before the slaughter.
“Ang salitang kultura ay katumbas ng salitang Ingles na ‘cultivate,’ na nangangahulugang ‘linang.’ Ibig sabihin, anomang nakapaloob na danas sa isang pangkat na nalinang ay bahagi ito ng kanilang kultura,” Tahir began.
He stressed that in the culture of the Moro people, using pork in Pastil is strictly prohibited as it is considered haram, or forbidden to the Islamic belief.
“Marami ng bersyon ang pastil sa Pilipinas lalo na sa mga komersyal ngunit sa pagkakataong ito, isang pambabastos at pagyurak sa kultura ng mga Moro at Muslim ang paglikha ng bagong bersyon ng Pastil na ang toppings ay karne ng baboy,” he stressed.
Tahir noted that it’s not necessarily wrong to create variants of the dishes, but it becomes problematic when it is done without taking into account its history and cultural significance.
“Hindi masama ang panggagaya o paglikha ng bagong bersyon ng isang pagkain na identidad ng isang kultura. Subalit ang paglikha ng isang pagkain na taliwas sa orihinal at may bahid ng pagsasawalang galang sa kultura at paniniwala ng nagmamay-ari nito ay isang gawaing hindi paggalang sa kultura ng iba,” he explained.
He stressed, “Hindi ito usapin lamang sa pagkain at paniniwala. Usapin ito sa kawalang sensibilidad sa kultura ng iba.”
Tahir added that people should practice cultural awareness and sensitivity, because inappropriate use of such terms may violate other else’s cultural beliefs.
“May nakapaloob na kultural na konteksto sa bawat kultural na katawagan, na hindi nagpapaliwanag sa danas ng anomang pangkat...Bilang Muslim o kahit hindi Muslim ngunit may malawak na pag-unawa, pagkilala, at paggalang sa kultura ng ibang pangkat, mahalagang alam at tungkulin ng bawat isa sa atin na may kamalayan tayo sa kultura— cultural awareness at sensitivity,” he said.