Chef Tony Boy Escalante on his food journey from Tagaytay to Manila, his caviar creations and his next BIG dream

I get emotional when it comes to Antonio’s PGA Cars because my first meal there—when they had just opened—was a birthday dinner hosted by Peter and Elena Coyiuto, with a table of 18 people I love. The Coyiutos ordered practically all the best dishes at Antonio’s so we could try everything. Ever so funny and humble, Peter even acted as a waiter for his brother Robert Coyiuto’s place of good food and handsome cars, bringing out the birthday cake and desserts as the finale to a happy get-together of three families.

The most unforgettable dishes for me that night were the Lobster Pasta and the Crab Pasta. (Didn’t I tell you I was a seafood fanatic?)

My next emotional meals there were with three of my regular BFF lunchmates, all food aficionados: Trina Kalaw, for whom Antonio’s PGA is practically an extension of her dining room, as she lives near her favorite restaurant; Monina Lacson, our dear fellow Theresian and former retail executive; and our beloved Mario Katigbak, a true guardian of luxury and fine taste.

Then my most recent meal was filled with just as much love, hosted by the beautiful Carol Foz-Asuncion, the owner and managing partner of Nomad Caviar, which had a collab with Antonio’s PGA. Most special of all was having the legendary chef himself, Tony Boy Escalante, join us at the table and regale us with stories of his culinary journey.

Exuding warmth and charisma, Tony Boy told us he spent three years studying dentistry before sinking his teeth into the food industry. He was also a Philippine Airlines flight attendant for 10 years before eventually landing in Tagaytay—but more on that later.

What took him so long to bring his Michelin-awarded Tagaytay brand of dining to Manila?

Chef Tony Boy explains: “It was the Enthusiasts Group Inc. that convinced me to open restaurants in Manila.”

What! After more than 20 years?

Carol explains: “As friends and admirers of his Antonio’s Tagaytay, this group has been encouraging Tony Boy to expand to Manila from the start. After two decades in Tagaytay, he finally said yes to the group right before the pandemic.” Tony Boy is now their consultant.

So they opened Antonio’s PGA in late 2023. Breakfast at Antonio’s is now at Robinsons Magnolia and the sleek Opus Mall, with another branch set to open in April at Rockwell Makati.

The Antonio’s PGA x Nomad Caviar menu was a standout: Nomad Caviar Sandwich with brioche, egg yolk jam, and mushroom consommé; Oysters and Pearls with cauliflower; Stuffed Coral Trout with scallop mousseline; Crab Capellini with crab fat and lemon; Fish Quenelle with champagne and vegetable Parisienne; Chilean Sea Bass with sea urchin and miso potato; and stuffed chicken wings for meat eaters. Dessert was Rhum Ice Cream with caramelized banana, chocolate mousse, and artichoke skin.

Chef Tony Boy delivers a fine dining experience that focuses on fresh, locally sourced ingredients.

Here are excerpts from our conversation at Antonio’s PGA:

THE PHILIPPINE STAR: What made you passionate about food?

ANTONIO “TONY BOY” ESCALANTE: I grew up with it. My family is really into food—it’s always been a big part of how we live. So it came naturally, I think.

How did it start?

I grew up around people who loved to cook and loved to entertain. Food was always at the center of everything. At some point, I just wanted to do it myself.

Where did you grow up?

Negros. And in Negros, food is everything. Every gathering revolves around it. We don’t just eat—we come together because of food.

Who was the cook in the family?

On my mother’s side—the Montilla side—my lola cooked very well, even if my mom didn’t. On the Escalante side, it was my lolo who ran the parties. He decided what to prepare and how everything should be done. My lola on that side ran the farm, so she had no time for the kitchen.

At what age did you first cook?

Grade school. Through Boy Scouts, and then at home. I was always around the kitchen.

What was your first dish?

Scrambled eggs. I still love eggs. Even now, when I cook breakfast, I need salt and pepper on the table—and a lot of butter. That hasn’t changed.

So now, what do you do with eggs?

You can make omelets or frittatas. But eggs themselves are so different now—the quality. You cook them, and you can feel it right away.

How long did you stay in the US, and when did you move to Tagaytay?

I went around college age. I took up dentistry and was maybe a year away from finishing when I quit. My dad wanted me to go into medicine. I wanted veterinary medicine but didn’t pass UP, so dentistry was the compromise. It didn’t work out.

When you quit, what happened next?

I became a flight steward with PAL, and that opened up a lot for me. I got to travel, experience restaurants in other countries—that’s really where the dream started. After leaving PAL, I went to Australia for culinary training, then came back and did my practicum at Tivoli at Mandarin Oriental. On weekends, I was already in Tagaytay, cooking for friends and building something there.

You are opening Breakfast at Antonio’s in Rockwell Makati soon. But I heard that years ago, when you were offered a space there, you initially turned it down?

I wasn’t ready then. I thought my life was in Tagaytay. Looking back, I needed those years. I built three restaurants there—you can’t shortcut that kind of experience.

What would you consider your masterpiece? Your pambato?

When I started, it was the spanferkel—whole roast pig, German-style. I still love doing it. It’s one of those dishes I never get tired of.

Who would be your ideal guests—say, a table for eight?

My family. My two sons. My siblings. The people I don’t have to think too hard about. At this point, that’s who I want to cook for.

You spent years as a flight steward with PAL before opening Antonio’s. How did that shape you?

The travel, more than anything. Every layover, I was eating out, going to markets, seeing how restaurants worked in other countries. I saw that people would drive far for a good restaurant—that a meal could be a destination.

That stayed with me. I thought, why not here? Why does it have to be in a hotel in Manila?

What is it about caviar that inspires you?

It’s simple, but it does so much. A small amount can completely change a dish—add depth, enhance everything around it.

And with Nomad caviar, what I appreciate is that it’s sustainable and approachable in price. More people should experience it.

What is it that excites you, aside from cooking?

I want to farm. Learn from farmers in Negros. I’ve already started growing my own black rice. I want to go deeper—organic, sustainable, working closely with local farmers and championing what’s already ours.

Tell us about the black rice you grow and give as Christmas gifts.

It’s organically grown and milled, so it has a nutty taste and great texture. Because it’s lightly polished, it’s also very nutritious.

What is the best thing said about you or Antonio’s? The worst, if any?

The best is when someone says they felt at home. That means a lot. People drive a long way to Tagaytay—if they leave feeling genuinely cared for, that’s enough for me.

The worst—there’s always criticism. Consistency, expectations. I take it seriously. That’s part of doing this for a long time.

How are your sons involved now?

Basti, my eldest, is very hands-on—helping bring everything to Manila and grow the brand. Pedro the Grocer is named after my younger son, Pedro. Basti actually came up with the name—he’s our inspiration for it.

What is the best lesson you learned as a restaurateur?

Don’t open a restaurant just because you love to cook—that’s not enough. You have to be ready for everything: the people, the pressure, the long hours. You have to love the whole life, not just the food.

And if you want to be a chef, work in a real kitchen first. Work under someone strict. Learn discipline before anything else.

Why is Balthazar in New York your favorite restaurant?

It’s the energy. The food is simple but excellent, and the place is always full. I love the crowd—people coming in after the opera, just wanting a good meal and a good time. There’s nothing pretentious about it.

Do you believe in food trends? What’s the trend now?

Trends will always be there. But what I notice is that people are more curious now. They want to try new places, new things—and that’s good. It pushes us to keep innovating, to work harder, to be better. That’s the trend I pay attention to.

What is the dream you have yet to fulfill?

To retire in Negros and to do farming, high-value crops like organic black rice, vanilla beans and organic poultry and pigs.
Most important, to give my devotion back to the Lord. Do things for him in the poor neighborhood.