Hail to the Chef Gaita Forés

“I have an Italian friend who gave me a silver charm bracelet that was all about food so I decided to have it copied in gold. It has my most favorite thing—the pepper mill. It has a pizza cutter, a farfalle, a little pan, a soup ladle, a little spoon, a chef's toque, a mezza luna, which for me is the cutest, a pot holder, and that’s it. Of course, I had to have an airplane so that I could keep traveling to Italy.”

The charm bracelet was a signature piece in Gaita’s effortlessly chic look, usually in her trademark black. Black—as in New Yorker black—was a color preference of her late mom, Baby Araneta Forés, who wore black with her usual white pearls as she reveled in New York’s social life for decades. She was always on the list of Manila’s women of style.

The Afternoon Tea at Lusso was Gaita’s way of honoring her mom who showed her the proper Afternoon Tea at the Hong Kong Peninsula lobby when she was young. They would enjoy sipping tea with bites that were very British while enjoying the busy lobby’s sights.

With her accountancy degree from New York where she studied at Marymount School and Mount Holyoke College, Gaita worked in Hong Kong for a while and then Valentino upon the prodding of her mom. But sooner than soon, Gaita found out that she was more passionate about food than fashion.

After culinary bites from the Big Apple, Gaita had immersive training in Italian cuisine under three chefs: Masha Innoscenti in Florence, Jo Bettoja in Rome, and Ada Parasiliti in Milan.

When she came home to Manila, the Hyatt Regency invited her to be a guest chef at their food festival. The hotel PR asked me to come and meet her—and I found myself fascinated by this young girl, eager to live her life with soot-filled pots and pans while she could probably have a more cushy life wearing Valentino fur instead of aprons. I featured her, full page, which she always remembered and would occasionally remind me: “You were the first to ever feature me as a chef when I came back to Manila.”

But the return of the native was not easy. “When I told my parents that I wanted to open a restaurant, they thought it was just a whim and at first didn’t give me all-out support, thinking I would soon think of another project to enjoy.”

But Gaita showed them how serious she was, and her mom Baby Forés gave her seed money. This granddaughter of tycoon J. Amado Araneta, who developed the 35-hectare Araneta Center in Cubao, and her dad, Raul Forés, a co-founder of Makati Medical Center, soon gave her family a taste of her talent. Fast forward to her opening Cibo, Cafe Bola, Pepato, Grace Park, and Lusso. And her Cibo di Marghi which is now the caterer of choice for VIPs and heads of state.

I learned many little things from her. She showed me and let me taste batwan, a little sour fruit from the Visayas that can be used for sinigang. And adlai, the heirloom rice grown by farmers whom she wanted to support. And surprising delicious ways of cooking capsicum.

Her many awards, like Best Female Chef in 2016, Order of the Star of Italy in 2018, are proof that her culinary passion was not just a whim. And perhaps topping her successes is the fact that her son Amado—with his own food concepts A Mano, Ramen Ron, and Steak and Frice— has been excellently raised by her with the same work ethic and creativity she had.

In every event catered by Gaita, I would always be touched whenever her manager or waiter would approach me and say: “Ma’am, we have prepared a special seafood dish for you, since you don’t eat meat. Binilin po.” That’s the thoughtful and caring Gaita that I knew. 

Now that Gaita is gone, I will miss this thoughtfulness. And the sound of the little pots and pans in her charm bracelet.

Chef Jessie Sincioco

I truly admire and respect Gaita Forés. Though she was born with a silver spoon, she was an amazing, hardworking woman who still chose to serve by being a chef. And she was able to make it big in the global culinary scene. She made remarkable contributions to elevate Philippine cuisine. She is one of a kind. 

Chef Florabel Co-Yatco

Gaita was, is, and always will be, a beacon in the local food industry. She is a true inspiration—a staunch advocate of quality and consistency. She also championed the best of Philippine ingredients, which is just one of the many remarkable things we will remember her for. While it saddens me that we won’t be crossing paths like we used to, I find comfort that we can all continue to enjoy the legacy she leaves behind. My heart goes out to her son Amado, whom I know can successfully continue sharing her love for food with all of us.

Chef Claude Tayag

In a way, chef Gaita’s sudden “retirement” happened at the peak of her culinary career. She was simply the best. Nonpareil. And she’ll always be remembered as such.

Chef JP Anglo

I’d like to call Gaita the “Madonna of Cooking.” Meaning, she never goes out of style. She was always so relevant. She was always up there. She was always like ever-evolving.

She was like the Lebron James of cooking. You know, Lebron James, at 40, is still making buckets, still performing at a high level. At 65, Gaita was a force to be reckoned with in the culinary world.

As a young culinary student, I ate at Cibo for the very first time in my early 20s. I’m 45 now. I still remember to this day how the Adobo Flakes with Kesong Puti tasted. Wow! This lady was making Filipino food look so cool and taste so homey.

My most recent encounter with her that really left a mark with me was during those Tatler Off-the-Menu events. All of us worked tirelessly that day. At the end of the day, we sent her a bowl of our dish with rice. She ate it. She hugged me after and in Ilonggo said, “Namit-namit. Thank you, gid.”

We, the younger chefs, are who we are because of her. She was the mother of modern Filipino food. She nurtured us and inspired us. Much respect to you, Gaita! We promise to continue what you started.

Chef Gilbert Pangilinan

Gaita and I worked on several collaborations, and I admire how much energy and passion she put into each project. She can make anything beautiful. Thank you, Gaita, for uplifting our Philippine culinary scene and for showing that Filipinos can be world-class chefs.

Farmer/restaurateur Louie Gutierrez

In January 2024, I bumped into Gaita at the Duomo in Milan. I was with my wife Maye and daughter Sofia and we were on a trip to Vicenza for the Jewelry Show. Gaita was bringing her team to Rimini for a gelato trade exhibit.

She showed me her charm bracelet full of travel and culinary trinkets and suggested that I should produce them for Silverworks. I also noticed how she was not “feeling boss” in the way she treated her team who were mostly first-timers to travel to Italy. She had genuine care for them as she acted as their tour guide. I never saw her that often but when we did, she would always be the first to greet and talk to me. She was such an authentic person.

Restaurateur Maritel Nievera

I admire Gaita’s passion and hard work in everything she did. One story I heard about her years ago was that she even took the MRT from Cubao to Makati to attend a meeting. She was so hands-on in the training of her cooks and service staff, and personally attended to all the details, including flower arrangements and the ambience.

We started in the industry almost the same time. Our children, Amado and Frances, were very close friends during their high school days at ISM and they still are today. Amado’s passion for food and food travels came from his mom. I always follow their new discoveries of good food in every country they visit on IG.

In November 2024, Gaita and I were on the same flight going to Iloilo and the same-day ferry ride to Bacolod where we stayed overnight. After meeting a chef in Bacolod, Gaita went back to Manila on the same day, and she added that the next day, she would have to leave for London. And I said to myself: Wow, such energy!

Restaurateur Ben Chan

Gaita has been part of many memorable milestones for me. She has been behind many gatherings in both my personal and professional lives, being the culinary genius that has brought me and my family, friends and guests together.

In a lot of dinners where I had to host foreign guests, such as the celebrities we work with, Gaita has always been their first gateway to our local culture. Her dedication to discover and elevate everyday local ingredients to a higher culinary level is an advocacy that we share with her as a local brand, as a fellow Filipino, and as a friend.

In the mid-‘90s, before she opened Cibo, we happened to be in Rome at the same time. From her many stories of the markets she visited, the cuisines that she tried, and the local towns she visited, I was amazed at her passion to achieve her mission to bring her experiences to Manila. I felt from then on that her concept is something that she leaves as her legacy to the Philippines.

Restaurateur Rikki Dee

Gaita, indeed, is a big loss to the culinary world not only in the Philippines but in Asia as well. Gone too soon!

Chef Heny Sison

I first met Gaita during a special table setup event, where I had the privilege of collaborating with talented individuals from different fields. It was a pictorial with the legendary Wig Tysman at Dusit Thani Hotel—an unforgettable moment that marked the beginning of our connection. From then on, our paths often crossed at weddings—where she was the caterer, and I, the cake maker.

One moment that truly reflects her generosity was when I needed chairs for a table setup at my school. I reached out to ask if I could rent some from her, and without hesitation, she sent them over—without asking for anything in return. That was Gaita—kind, selfless, and always willing to support others. We shared a passion for food, design, and hospitality, often exchanging ideas.

Not too long ago, she even suggested we travel to London together to source silverware—an exciting prospect that, sadly, we never got to fulfill. Her passing is a heartbreaking reminder of how fleeting life is. It urges us to be grateful for each day, to extend kindness, and to cherish the people who enrich our lives. Rest well, dear Gaita. Your generosity, talent, and warmth will always be remembered.

Restaurateur Ana Lorenzana De Ocampo

While I’d known Margarita for years, even before I entered the restaurant business, and would bump into her at numerous industry events, it was really at last year’s Mega Ball, for which I served as co-chairperson of the organizing committee, and she was among our 10 esteemed awardee chefs to be honored that evening to celebrate excellence in Filipino cuisine, that I was really able to collaborate with her.

Although I unfortunately did not get to work with her in the kitchen to prepare the sumptuous feast for the night (as I was preoccupied with handling the logistics of the event), I really remember how infectious her excitement was at being able to work with her fellow chef-honorees, and I admired that she was just genuinely happy to participate—not needing to stand out or be given special treatment whatsoever.

And that’s how I’d like to remember Gaita—somebody who had a zest for life and a true passion and excitement for food, and local food in particular. I always enjoyed talking shop with her whenever I’d see her, and she was very generous with sharing industry tips and insights. Such a huge and unexpected loss for the Philippine food scene—she who always did her best to push things forward.

Restaurateur Elbert Cuenca

In 2019, I had just opened Elbert’s Pizzeria in Salcedo Village, Makati. We were only a few months old when I received a call from a good friend and supplier, Alex Lichaytoo of Bacchus International. He asked if it was okay for Margarita Forés and her son Amado, along with their kitchen team, to visit my restaurant to sample my pizzas because they were about to open A Mano at Power Plant Mall.

I obliged without hesitation. 

Soon enough, around a dozen people from another establishment were in mine, ordering a number of pizzas from our menu. These things don’t normally happen, but then, this was Margarita. 

What initially was supposed to be a simple food-sampling exercise soon turned into a camaraderie with an exchange of knowledge and information. Both teams were learning from each other. 

That pretty much sums up the Margarita I know. She was constantly learning from others, despite her wisdom and experience, which she generously shared with others. Instead of seeing other restaurants and restaurateurs as competitors, she looked at them as compatriots.

The culinary industry in the Philippines has vastly improved because of her. 

Restaurateur Millie Reyes

I once did a catering collab with Gaita.

Nedy Tantoco of Rustan’s commissioned both of us to cater for a Ferragamo dinner at the NBC tent for some 500 elite guests. It was such a breeze working with her as a budding young chef. She was organized and very professional!

In 1994, when The Plaza was handling the Food Services at the Asian Development Bank, I invited Gaita as a guest chef to create some Italian dishes and she cheerfully obliged.

Her passing is such a great loss to the industry. 

Chef Karla Reyes

The one time I had the honor of working with Gaita was when we were the featured chefs for the fundraising dinner of Project Wheelchair at The Manila Hotel in November 2018.

I was pleasantly surprised and kilig to learn that she knew who I was. She came from a previous event and I watched how her team handled the plating of the course with ease. It spoke so much of her high standard and quality of training. She was an advocate for locally-produced products and made it a point to include The Plaza’s Smoked Tanguingue into her menu line for catering. She told me that instead of reinventing the wheel, might as well order from us since we’ve been doing this for decades. It’s not something you hear from a competitor in the industry. I appreciate the mutual respect and friendly competition she established and I’ll forever be a Spinaci Zola fan.

Chef Robby Goco

It is with a heavy heart that I say farewell to a fellow member of the culinary community, a true master of our craft, and a pillar of our culinary community. Gaita, your passion, talent, and unwavering dedication to the industry have left an indelible mark on all of us who had the honor growing in this industry alongside you. The kitchens you graced, the people you mentored, the dining experience you presented, and the flavors you created will forever be part of your legacy.

Thank you for your inspiration, your generosity, and the countless ways you elevated our industry. Your spirit will live on in every chef you’ve inspired.