Lusso: Where Margarita Forés taught us to fly
There was something about Margarita Forés that made you forget she was an icon. In an industry where everyone is perpetually busy, she stood out for her ability to pause and connect.
After a simple article about afternoon tea at Lusso in Rockwell, she sent me a message: “My biggest gratitude to you for writing such a touching, glowing story on Lusso. It is my most personal concept, and you shared my story nicely. Forever grateful! And thank you, too, for your all-out support for my son, Amado! Hope to catch you soon! Deep thanks again!” This wasn’t a formulaic or hurried response—it was Margarita being Margarita.
Walking into her newest restaurant, Lusso at The Podium, the song Volare—meaning “to fly” in Italian—plays softly. The space, designed with Jorge Yulo and Mark Wilson, speaks of Milano without overstatement: a spiral staircase winding through two stories, gold-touched lamps casting warm light over marble tables, and a stunning chandelier anchoring the room. “I want guests to feel transported,” she explained, and she succeeded.
A legacy of excellence
Her longtime PR consultant and friend Joey Suarez puts it this way: “I knew she was a busy woman. I had no idea until I was part of her team how busy she was... She is as amazing as people think she is. She truly deserves the iconic image that people have of her.” In conversations about her impact, diners list her establishments: Cibo, which introduced many to Italian casual dining; Grace Park, where farm-to-table wasn’t just a catchphrase; her catering service that marked countless celebrations. She brought bottarga, foie gras, and lobster to Philippine tables yet remained equally passionate about local ingredients. Her eyes would light up, discussing taba ng talangka (crab fat) with the same enthusiasm as Italian truffles. This appreciation for global and local flavors is shown in dishes like her Barquillos with Chive Mousse, Salmon Roe, and Prosciutto.
The soul in small spaces
Her kitchens were modest in size but boundless in ambition. Under chef de cuisine Mariel Bustamante and sous chef Eric Magante, each plate at Lusso is precise. The Fries with Lumpfish Caviar, the Barquillos with Chive Mousse and Salmon Roe, and the Roast Lamb Sandwich with strawberry jam show a well-travelled palette. The Confit de Canard and Lusso Demi-pound Burger with foie gras round out the signatures. Restaurant managers Larry Clamor and Joy Bilan oversee the dining room, ensuring every guest’s experience meets her standards.
The contrast between these humble cooking spaces and the elegant dining rooms speaks to her character—never grandiose in operation, always exceptional in output. Her attention to detail shows in the careful splitting of portions, the perfect timing of courses, and the consistent execution of each dish.
A legacy of loyalty
Many of her staff have been with her for 15 years, setting a new standard for Philippine hospitality. One longtime staff member, who began in her home, remembers how she personally called him to help with the Podium branch. These aren’t just employees—they’re stewards of her vision of hospitality.
The staff at Lusso remembers your name, greets you warmly when you return, and recalls your previous orders. This attention to detail has influenced service standards across the Philippine culinary landscape.
Writing this piece required multiple visits. During my last visit, I sat beside a group planning their meal with obvious pleasure. “We must have the lobster... and the foie gras... shall we get champagne? Make room for dessert, too.” They mapped out their evening, listing the Forés’ establishments as they went: “She also did Cibo, Grace Park... and then there’s A Mano with her son, Amado Forés.” Each venue represents her lasting impact on the hospitality industry and unquestionable integrity.
Volare continues to play in Lusso’s elegant space. Like the song about a dreamer painted in blue, Margarita had a way of elevating everything she touched—whether through a personal note, a warm greeting, an infectious laugh, or a perfectly executed dish. Her small kitchens produced exceptional food, while her genuine approach to hospitality set a standard that endures. As the familiar Italian melody plays on, it carries new meaning—a reminder that some spirits are meant to soar.
