No drama, please, we are Australian • PhilSTAR Life

Only a couple of weeks ago, while navigating the overstimulated landscape of modern Philippine dining, where everything is constantly screaming to be seen, understood, explored, and interpreted, I found myself looking for a reprieve. In a culinary scene that often confuses spectacle with substance, it is easy to feel entirely overwhelmed by kitchens that insist on performing rather than simply cooking.

The antidote has arrived on the penthouse level of the Levanto Building in Makati. At La Reserve, a new partnership is changing the conversation. With Brontë, chef-owner Wade Watson and actor Derek Ramsay have introduced a space of pure restraint, framing a real taste of Australia through nothing but exceptional quality.

The minimalist partnership: Derek Ramsay and chef-owner Wade Watson toast to unpretentious, premium dining.

The name itself carries a breezy, unpretentious origin. You might expect a calculated nod to English literary history, revelation from childhood, or a complex piece of branding, but Wade dismisses the notion with a frank smile. It was simply a word spoken by his partner, Hannah, during a stroll along Bondi Beach in Sydney. It fit, it stuck, and it perfectly encapsulates the spirit of a restaurant that refuses to wrap itself in unnecessary narrative armor.

An expertly cut classic: Finely hand-cut beef tartare arrives crowned with a golden egg yolk nestled in its shell, accompanied by sharp pickles and toasted crostini.

Wade describes the vision as quality, refined, and simplistic. Though he acknowledges the inherent contradiction between simplicity and refinement, he maintains that the world’s finest restaurants are those that shun unnecessary complications, serving the exact food people want to eat. Derek echoes this philosophy, stripping the objective down to three core priorities: quality, uniqueness, and pure deliciousness.

Uncomplicated masterpiece: Crisp romaine leaves are showered in finely grated parmesan and shards of smoky bacon, anchored by a single soft-boiled egg.

You see this focus on substance the moment you walk through the door. The interiors play a beautifully restrained game. Instead of the typical, over-designed dining rooms that fight for attention, the space leans into an unhurried, industrial ease. Crisp white linen cuts through a palette of muted earth tones and taupes, while cane-woven chairs wrapped in terracotta add a grounding, tactile warmth to the floor. It is a minimalist retreat high above the city traffic.

Tower of decadence: A thick, grilled beef patty rests between toasted brioche buns, stacked high with crisp lettuce, fresh tomato, and smoky bacon before being crowned with a glossy fried egg.

Angled glass walls frame the room, looking out over the treetops of Urdaneta Village and the surrounding Makati skyline. Inside, the energy centers on the open kitchen, balanced overhead by a massive, sculptural arrangement of globe pendants that flood the tables with a golden radiance. Large, strategically placed yuccas, which happen to be Derek’s personal contribution to the space because of his love for plants, become stunning green accents against the neutral backdrop.

Window to the city: Crisp white linens, muted earth tones and striking globe pendants define the minimalist retreat high above the Makati skyline.

A glimpse at the classic bill of fare reveals that Brontë, at its core, is a steakhouse. While most high-end establishments in Manila lean heavily on American corn-fed cuts, Watson champions the cleaner, more robust profile of his homeland heritage, where cattle graze on open pastures and finish on a diet of barley and wheat.

Vibrant refreshment: Slices of Tasmanian salmon crudo glisten in a citrus-infused pool, dotted with heirloom tomatoes, cucumber ribbons and fresh micro-greens.

The opening selections balance refinement with generosity, moving effortlessly from freshly shucked oysters with finger lime pearls and Tasmanian salmon crudo to a richly indulgent foie gras terrine and Wagyu beef tacos. At the heart of the experience is an impressive selection of steaks, including the Carrara Wagyu ribeye and the Snake River Farms Gold Label striploin.

Refinement with generosity: Perfectly seared bone-in N.Y. Strip Red Phoenix MB5 is beautifully sliced and served with fresh asparagus, a rich sauce, and a decadent side dish.

The true showstoppers are the large-format cuts designed for sharing, such as the Brontë Grand porterhouse and the Côte de Bœuf Carrara bone-in. To experience these cuts is to understand Wade’s uncompromising discipline regarding execution. The chef is adamant about allowing the steak to rest so that the proteins relax and the juices redistribute throughout the meat, resulting in a more tender and juicy bite. He is very clear with his diners that if they are in a hurry, they should look elsewhere on the menu, because anything over 500 grams requires a full hour of patience to be prepared correctly.

Sweet finale: Decadent sticky toffee pudding sits in a pool of rich butterscotch sauce, finished with white chocolate shards, fresh berries and a dollop of cream.

Beyond the steaks, the menu fills out with a clear focus on clean execution. Australian lamb chops, a personal standout for Wade, share space with duck breast and a rich Boston lobster risotto. The kitchen handles seafood with the same strict minimalism, pan-frying Australian barramundi meunière-style with nothing but vine tomatoes, capers, dill and French cultured butter.

Unapologetic classic: Decadent Tournedos Rossini, beautifully stacked with seared foie gras, pairs exquisitely with a vintage bottle of Chateau Haut-Brion.

Plates range from classic confit de canard to angel hair pasta tossed with local Manila clams and tiger prawns. For dessert, traditional pavlova and sticky toffee pudding sit alongside a crème brûlée flan with a distinct Filipino inflection. The meal closes with a full cheese service, wheeled straight to the table with globally sourced varieties, crackers, grape, and quince paste.

Champagne-forward: An exceptional lineup of prestige cuvées stands ready to elevate the evening.

The beverage program is equally formidable, complemented by a champagne-forward philosophy designed to marry off the decadent caviar offerings on hand. Wade proudly asserts that the only other venues in Manila with a wine list like theirs are the casinos. Hidden within the restaurant is The Vault, an impressive cellar housing the chef’s personal, lifelong collection of iconic bottles, spanning from celebratory non-vintage labels to rare prestige cuvées like the opulent Dom Pérignon P2 Plenitude Brut 2008, the Krug Grande Cuvée 172ème Édition, and the exceptional Cristal Brut Rosé 2002. Connoisseurs will also spot the highly coveted Château Haut-Brion and the unicorn Sassicaia Tenuta San Guido Bolgheri 1997.

Timeless indulgence: A perfectly crafted Old Fashioned sits cast in a rich crimson glow, catching the light alongside a vibrant citrus twist.

Behind the bar, the drink list keeps the focus tight and punchy. The namesake Brontë mixes peach, Prosecco, elderflower and strawberry, while the house gimlet gets a sharp citrus lift from pomelo and candied lemon. Even the classic Negroni changes direction, built around the distinct, tart profile of Chase Rhubarb Gin.

Balancing act: A velvety, thick froth blankets a classic whiskey sour, beautifully garnished with a dehydrated citrus wheel and delicate aromatic bitter art.

Ultimately, Brontë succeeds because it understands that true hospitality does not require a script or a spectacle. By relying on the clarity of premium sourcing, impeccable technique, and an atmosphere of unhurried calm, Wade and Derek have created a rare place that trusts its ingredients this much, a return to fine dining that needs no theatrical or highly conceptual translation.