Kenya: A true jewel of Africa
From the bustling streets of Nairobi to the serene plains of the Maasai Mara, Kenya unfolds like a vibrant tapestry, inviting us on an exhilarating journey through its breathtaking landscapes and rich cultural heritage.
My daughters and I unanimously decided that Kenya would be the ideal destination to celebrate my 70th birthday with the family. As it turned out, we were closer to my 71st birthday when we finally settled on the date. But the timing could have been more inconsequential than the joy of sharing this adventure with the grandchildren. This trip would be our third safari, with my daughters having previously explored the wonders of Zimbabwe and Tanzania during the Great Migration that commences in July when two million wildebeest, zebras, and other animals travel from the Serengeti and cross the Mara River to the Maasai Mara for greener pastures after the rainy season in Kenya.
Our journey to Nairobi was challenging. We had once visited this city on an overnight trip on the way to the Serengeti. But civil unrest had cut our visit short. This time, just two weeks before we departed for Kenya, riots broke out as the youth protested Congress’s approval of the Finance Bill. These events cast a shadow of uncertainty over our plans until the agency and our friends in Nairobi reassured us that it was safe to proceed. It was a tough decision, considering we were with two minors, and the males in our group who would be able to rescue us were my son-in-law and the agency’s driver.
Nairobi
I was pleasantly surprised to find a bustling metropolis like Manila, except for its cool highland climate. It is East Africa’s largest city, well-known for its coffee industry. The disparity between the wealthy and the underprivileged is apparent. Some suburbs, like Karen, are peaceful and picturesque. It is known for its affluent residential areas, spacious homes and lush greenery. The area is named after Karen Blixen, a Danish author best known for her book Out of Africa, recounting her experiences living on a coffee plantation. Her home is now a museum, which we were able to visit. Its other main attractions that the kids enjoyed are the Giraffe Center, Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (an elephant orphanage), and several high-end restaurants. Indian cuisine, like the Red Ginger, has gained significant popularity in Nairobi because of the long-standing Indian community that dates back to the 19th century. These Indians worked on the railways and were crucial in promoting Indian culture. My favorite was Cultiva Restaurant, known for its focus on healthy, farm-to-table dining and supporting local farmers. The menu has various vegetarian and plant-based options, including Peruvian-Japanese cuisine.
One of Nairobi’s most intriguing aspects is its National Park, a wildlife haven within the city limits. Home to various animals, including lions, giraffes and rhinos, the park offers a unique blend of urban and natural experiences, making it a must-visit for any wildlife enthusiast with limited time.
The Safari
After three days in Nairobi, we were brimming with excitement for the first day of our seven-day safari journey. Our land trip took six hours north of Nairobi, crossing the equator to Buffalo Springs Natural Reserve, located within the Great Rift Valley. The rift stretches over 6,400 kilometers from the Middle East down through East Africa, passing through Ethiopia, Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda. The rift is a result of tectonic plate movements that led to the creation of various geological formations.
We checked in at Surana Lodge. It is an exquisite camp in the dry landscape marked with spots of lava stones and desert flora. We embarked on our first game drive in the afternoon, where we spotted the reticulated giraffes, whose habitat is in northern Kenya. I learned that giraffes may look alike, but some species set them apart. The reticulated giraffe is differentiated by its coat, which consists of large, polygonal, block-like spots that extend onto the lower legs, tail and face (according to Wikipedia). My granddaughters had with them a catalog of animals they expected to see and excitedly checked whenever they spotted one. Buffalo Springs National Reserve hosts zebras, impalas, antelopes, baboons and elephants. But the big cats were not around the reserve that afternoon, so we arranged to enter the adjacent Samburu National Park. I asked our guide about the difference between a national park and a national reserve. The former is government-owned and managed by the community, while the camps inside the reserve privately own the latter.
Samburu National Park
In the park, game drivers ask drivers of approaching vehicles what they have spotted. One such lead brought us to where the lions were stalking their prey—a lone zebra. With hushed whispers and bated breath, we stealthily maneuvered around the tall grass, our eyes locked on the pride of lions as they gathered—10 of them, nine females and one lazy male—in a tense group with calculated movements revealing the fierce artistry of nature’s perfect hunt. With a determined glint in her eyes, the leader of the pride made the critical decision to go for the kill; however, as she lunged toward the unsuspecting zebra, her momentum faltered, and the kick from her prey sent her sprawling. It was a stark reminder that even the most skilled hunters must rely on the strength and timing of their pride to succeed.
Maasai Mara National Reserve
We took a single-engine plane to the Maasai Mara, a world-renowned wildlife reserve in southwestern Kenya. It is part of the larger Serengeti ecosystem that extends into Tanzania. Having witnessed the most incredible natural event in the world, the Great Migration from Tanzania, we wanted to see the animals cross the Mara River into Kenya. Arriving in this Reserve was the highlight of our trip. We checked in at the Governor’s Camp, Africa’s first permanent luxury tented camp nestled along the winding banks of the Mara River.
My granddaughters were utterly captivated by the enchanting wildlife that surrounded us during our stay; while enjoying lunch in the garden, we watched in delight as warthogs grazed on the lush grass of the lawn. Each evening, we were treated to the majestic sight of elephants wandering through the camp, their gentle presence adding to the magic of our adventure. Before dawn, the curious sounds of hippos feeding just beside our tent would awaken us, prompting the kids to eagerly roll up the window covering to peek at these magnificent creatures, their eyes wide with wonder at the beauty of nature unfolding right outside our doorstep. Though we missed the elusive rhinoceros—the rarest of the Big Five, who typically grace the landscape in the early morning—we remained grateful for our unforgettable encounters with the other Big Four. Each sighting, from the regal lions lounging under the shade to the majestic elephants wandering gracefully through the bush, left us in awe and filled our hearts with appreciation for the incredible wildlife in this extraordinary wilderness.
The most exciting and spectacularly outstanding scene was witnessing the thousands of zebras crossing the Mara River. It was a breathtaking spectacle as adults, adolescents and tiny foals plunged into the rushing waters, their striped bodies creating a mesmerizing pattern against the backdrop of the vibrant landscape. The air was thick with anticipation and excitement as the sounds of splashing hooves and the calls of the animals echoed around us, unaware of the danger that awaited them. At the right time, the hungry Nile crocodile (Crocodylus niloticus), the largest freshwater predator in Africa, is ready for the ambush.
Hidden beneath the surface, the four crocodiles lay in wait, perfectly camouflaged among the rocks and reeds. Their keen eyes tracked the herd’s movement, muscles coiled and ready to strike. As the zebras plunged deeper into the river, the crocodiles seized their moment; with astonishing speed, they lunged from the water, jaws wide open, aiming for the unsuspecting prey.
The chaos that ensued was thrilling and harrowing; the zebras, caught in fear, kicked and splashed in a frantic bid for survival. Some managed to escape the razor-sharp jaws of the crocodiles, while others struggled desperately against the powerful reptiles. The river became a tumultuous battleground, where the relentless instincts of predator and prey clashed in a breathtaking display of nature’s raw power.
Amidst the tumult, the sight of the zebras navigating the dangerous waters, combined with the swift, calculated attacks of the crocodiles, created a dramatic scene that embodied the fierce realities of life in the wild—a vivid reminder of the constant struggle for survival in the heart of the Maasai Mara. Such is the cycle of life and death in wildlife; some have to die so that other species can live.
Amboseli National Park
Amboseli National Park is renowned for its majestic elephant herds, with around 1,600 elephants roaming its vast landscapes. These magnificent creatures are some of the largest in the world, known for their impressive size and the extraordinary length of their tusks, which give them a prehistoric appearance, evoking a sense of awe and wonder in all who are fortunate enough to encounter them.
As we explored the park, we marveled at the sight of these gentle giants, often seen congregating in family groups with matriarchs leading the way. Their presence is a testament to the successful conservation efforts in the region, allowing them to thrive in an environment that supports their social structures and migratory patterns.
As we bid farewell to this enchanting land, we rushed through lunch at the Carnivore Restaurant by the airport before our flight. Our hearts brimmed with unforgettable memories and diverse experiences as a family during our journey into Kenya’s wildlife.