Michelin moments: A starry night for the Philippines
As the chefs of the restaurants that had just been awarded one Michelin star posed for photos and hugged one another, there was a question on many people’s minds: Why wasn’t chef Josh Boutwood onstage with them?
He had gone up three times before—when his restaurants Ember, Juniper and Test Kitchen were announced in the Michelin Selected category. But what about Helm, his very personal, 24-seater gem of a resto?
Later, he would tell The Philippine STAR, “When the Selected list came out, I was very happy that my Juniper was there, my Ember was there, my Test Kitchen was there. When the one-star list came out, I noticed that it skipped over Helm and I was like, ‘F*ck, we’ve missed out.’ My wife was seated on the other side. I texted her, ‘I’m palpitating right now.’”
The chefs seated around Josh were telling him that he was going to get two stars. “But I didn’t believe it,” he said.
Then, the host said the words that made everyone gasp: ”But wait… there’s more… we also have the distinction of two Michelin stars!”
And finally, Helm was called. “The Philippines’ first two Michelin star restaurant!” Issa proclaimed as Josh made his way down the red carpet. He gave his wife a big kiss before going up the stage.
Josh, the son of a Filipino father and an English mother, addressed the crowd. “I was born into this industry, with both parents being restaurateurs and hoteliers, so I had no other option but to continue what they did. It has been my absolute love to do what I do, and I couldn’t do what I do without all of the teams that are behind me. My wife is over there, my children are watching, and without their dedication and support, I don’t think this would have been achievable. This has been a childhood dream… and receiving two stars is an absolute honor. I thank you all for sharing this moment with me.”
The Michelin Guide Manila and Environs & Cebu made its debut, honoring over 100 restaurants — and we’re already seeing its impact.
Months ago, during the launch of Juniper, I had spoken to Josh about the arrival of The Michelin Guide in the country. He said, “I am excited, obviously, about Michelin coming in. I’m also very nervous… For the past decade and a half, the industry has become very close. We’ve all become really good friends. Since the official announcement, we’re all collectively very worried that it’s gonna bring in this level of competition that we’ve never had to experience before… My only friends are in the industry, and I don’t want our friendships to be tarnished because somebody has one star more than the other… But we’re all gonna work to get as many stars as we possibly can. That’s going to be exciting, focusing on making sure that we achieve the best that we can possibly achieve. And you know, we might look back, we might have a chat in November, and I don’t get any stars, and I’ll regret saying what I’ve said, but, you know, we’re going to aim for the highest point.“
Phenomenal night
Just after the Michelin ceremony, I spoke to him again. “I can’t believe this. It hasn’t sunk in yet,” he said.
When asked what the secret is to getting two stars, Josh replied, “I have no idea. In my head, it doesn’t make sense. You know, I’m sat with greatness. I’m sat with Toyo, with Inatô, with Gallery by Chele, and it doesn’t make sense to me why they’ve given me two and it’s something that I have to figure out and analyze. But right now, I just want to enjoy the moment… It’s a phenomenal night for our industry.”.
It truly was a phenomenal night. The Marriott Grand Ballroom at Newport World Resorts was filled with the country’s culinary superstars, champions of Philippine cuisine, restaurateurs, industry partners, journalists, and food fans, all eager to find out who made it to the first Michelin Guide Manila and Environs & Cebu.
Kicking off the ceremony, Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guides, said, “From the skyline of BGC to the coastal beauty of Cebu and from the historic streets of Old Manila to the creative pulse of Quezon City and Marikina, what the (Michelin inspectors) discovered was nothing short of extraordinary—an energetic, diverse and soulful culinary landscape that reflects the heart of all people. Filipino cuisine is bold, generous, deeply personal. It tells a story of heritage and innovations, where sweet, salty, sour and umami harmonize to create flavors that are both comforting and exciting.”
Anonymous inspectors
All over the world, inspectors evaluate restaurants based on the following criteria: quality of the ingredients, mastery of cooking techniques, harmony of flavors, personality of the chef’s cuisine, and the consistency of the dining experience.
“All the Michelin Guide inspectors are full-time professionals, working only for Michelin, paid by Michelin,” Gwendal told the STAR. “They have a background working for the industry. We protect the anonymity of the inspectors. To make sure that they have an unbiased experience, they pay the bill in full. Inspectors eat out in restaurants about 300 times a year. It’s a full-time job.”
Michelin’s pool of inspectors is composed of more than 30 different nationalities. “We always involve local, regional inspectors with international inspectors,” said Gwendal. “To make this first selection, we involved about 10 different nationalities of inspectors. It’s an international project.”
The process is really “boots on the ground,” said Gwendal. “It’s one of the reasons the Michelin Guide expansion is gradual. We need to embrace the local food culture, and the only way to do that is to experience as many restaurants as possible in all the different ranges—from high-end fine dining to the local side street eateries.”
Onstage at the ceremony, he said, “I am proud to announce that our independent inspectors have selected over 100 restaurants in Manila and Cebu.”
Stars
Seventy-four restaurants—62 in Manila and Environs and 12 in Cebu—made it to the Michelin Selected list and 25 (19 in Manila and Environs) were given the Bib Gourmand, a distinction that “celebrates restaurants that embody the spirit of generosity, delivering exceptional cooking, remarkable flavors and memorable dining experiences, all at great value.” (See sidebar for full list.)
Then there are the stars. It’s nice to note that five of the eight restaurants that received one Michelin star serve contemporary Filipino food.
Issa said, “The Michelin Guide would like to emphasize that being a starred restaurant means you are among the best restaurants not just in the city, not just in the Philippines, but in the world… A star in the Philippines shows the same promise of quality as a star in New York or a star in Paris.”
As the awards were handed out, there was tireless cheering, the kind you’d often only see at sporting events. There was so much joy, love and pride in the room. It was beautiful to see.
Young chefs
According to Gwendal, one thing that sets the Philippines apart from other countries is our young chefs. “Our inspectors have been very much impressed by this young generation of chefs. They are bold. They are inspired by the culinary heritage, but at the same time, they are innovative, and they are open to the world. They are redefining Filipinos’ culinary heritage in a modern way, while reinforcing its identity.”
Around 40 percent of the restaurants that inspectors have selected for the guide are helmed by chefs under 30. “That proportion is really impressive,” said Gwendal.
At the ceremony, Don Patrick Baldosano of Linamnam was given the Young Chef Award. He said, “I hope this award just goes to show what you can do with the possibilities of Filipino food.”
His restaurant Linamnam was also given one Michelin star. “Everybody thinks it’s just me, but Linamnam is actually my team back home, the farmers that we work with, and the producers that we work with. If it wasn’t for them, I wouldn’t be here standing in front of you guys... I just wish everyone cooks Filipino food.”
Offbeat, Don’s restaurant with Angelo Comsti, is also part of the Michelin Selected list.
Hospitality
Another thing that impressed the inspectors about the Philippines is our hospitality. “The warmth and genuine care of the Filipino people is woven into every experience. Whether at casual eateries or fine dining establishments, it always leaves a lasting impression,” said Gwendal.
He told the STAR, “Here, one of the key success factors for the future is not only the young chefs but also the fact that you have an extraordinary, strongly enthusiastic workforce in the restaurant industry.”
Erin Recto, sommelier and operations director of Hapag and Aya, was given the Michelin Service Award. “I’m very, very shocked,” Erin said. “But the team works really hard. We do what we do for Filipino culture. We just always want to represent that.”
Hapag received one Michelin star while Aya is part of the Michelin Selected list. Accepting the star for Hapag, chef and co-owner Thirdy Dolatre said, “Para sa Pilipinas nating mahal.”
“Filipino food is cool,” said Hapag and Aya chef and co-owner John Kevin Navoa. “For the next generation, I hope this will inspire you guys to cook Filipino food and push forward.”
Another big winner at the inaugural Michelin Guide ceremony was chef Chele Gonzalez. Gallery by Chele, which he helms with chef Carlos Villaflor, got one Michelin star and also a Green Star for its farm-to-table philosophy, waste-reduction practices and commitment to biodiversity and community sourcing. Asador Alfonso, where he’s teamed up with chef Rodrigo A. Osorio, also got one Michelin star. Cantabria by Chele and Enye by Chele are also part of the Michelin Selected list.
He was chatting with chef Jordy Navarra, whose Toyo Eatery also got one star, when I caught up with him at the post-ceremony reception where chefs from Michelin-starred restaurants from other countries—Caprice, Dewakan, Kasama, Vea—served food alongside Toyo Eatery and Bib Gourmand awardees The Pig & Palm and Manam at the Triangle.
"I think it’s gorgeous for the country. I mean, this is a milestone. It’s a game changer,” Chele said.
Chef Jordy, who was wearing his “Mata sa langit, paa sa lupa” shirt under his new Michelin chef’s jacket, added, “I’m happy for everyone. Every time they called a restaurant name, I was just super happy for them. It’s great to see how the dining scene has evolved and grown. And now, we have this, which is great. It’s nice for our cuisine and our community.”
Also looking spiffy in his Michelin jacket was chef JP Cruz, whose restaurant Inatô was also given one star. “It’s been really shocking for me. I feel proud for my team and everyone involved, especially for the Philippines. It’s great. It means a lot. It’s the first time Michelin came here and the fact that there’s a lot of places that got a star... It’s so big.”
Happy tears
Celera chefs Nicco Santos and Quenee Vilar were enveloped by friends in a group hug. Wiping away tears, Nicco tells the STAR, “We came in today just wanting to celebrate the chefs who were gonna get awards. We just opened eight months ago. We really had no idea if we were gonna get any award. I really did not expect anything. So I’m so happy to share this win with Quenee and my partners and our team members.”
Onstage, as they accepted the award, he said, “This is just one star to add to my 18 stars in the restaurant waiting.”
It was also his team that was on chef Aaron Isip’s mind as he accepted the one Michelin star for Kasa Palma. After the ceremony ended, he left the reception so they could celebrate together. On the way there, he spoke to me on the phone. “It still feels surreal. I still can’t believe it. It’s really a dream come true. But we’re gonna do business as usual. I want my staff to be happy. I want us not to have that pressure of constantly trying to try to earn another Michelin star. Business as usual but we’ll let all the creativity flow.”
Amado Fores, whose Ramen Ron and Steak & Frice are part of the Michelin Selected list, said, “It feels great to be here. Even just to be here is really special. It’s quite a blessing that this is happening now for the country.”
But for him, the night was bittersweet. His mom’s restaurant Lusso—the one in Greenbelt—also made it to the Michelin Selected list. But Margarita, who passed away in February, wasn’t there to see it. A staunch champion of Filipino cuisine and one of the pioneers of bringing our food to the world stage, she was missed by people all the more that night. She had devoted her life to uplifting the food scene. She should have been there—and she would have loved it.
Proud day
The arrival of the Michelin Guide in the country was supported by the Department of Tourism. Tourism Secretary Christina Garcia Frasco said, “The beauty of this recognition from Michelin is that it embraces every corner of our culinary landscape, from fine dining restaurants to beloved eateries, carinderias and street food stalls that bring family and friends together. The Michelin Guide reminds us that excellence is not only defined by luxury, but by authenticity, passion and heart.”
She told The Philippine STAR, “It’s a proud day to be a Filipino and a proud day for the Philippines. It’s a culmination of years of dedication, creativity, sacrifice and perseverance of those in the culinary industry. This is their triumph as much as every Filipino’s. This is a win for the Philippines and a much-deserved recognition of our culture, our creativity, our heritage, and the talent that pervades our islands.”
Michelin being in the country means growth, expansion and possibilities for tourism, she said. “Our hope is that with this global stamp of affirmation from The Michelin Guide, we’ll be receiving more tourists, creating more livelihood and providing more opportunities for our small and medium enterprises, more ambition for our young chefs, and of course, more business for our suppliers, our growers, our farmers, our fisherfolk. Everybody wins with this win for the Philippines.”
Even before the tourists could come, we’re already seeing the impact of The Michelin Guide.
The Michelin effect
The day after the ceremony, people flocked to Aida’s Chicken, a popular inasal restaurant in Makati Cinema Square that’s now part of the Michelin Selected list. “Grabe Ma’am, dinumog kami,” said one of the ladies there, sharing how the line outside the restaurant had snaked to the ukay-ukay stores in the mall. Aida’s has always been popular. Even before the Michelin announcement, it wasn’t unusual for them to run out of chicken before dinner time. But that Friday, not even 24 hours after they officially became part of The Michelin Guide, the chicken was gone by 2 p.m. The next day, there was an even longer line.
A similar thing has happened at Morning Sun Eatery, a roadside carinderia that serves BBQ and Ilocano comfort food in Project 4, Quezon City, that was given the Bib Gourmand distinction.
On Sunday night, a crowd gathered outside Bib Gourmand resto Sarsa, waiting to get tables.
Sialo, one of the Michelin Selected restaurants, has also experienced the impact of being included in The Michelin Guide. Chef Ron Villavelez said, “Being a fine dining restaurant in Cebu, and the only one that offers seasonal tasting menus, sustaining the business has been quite a struggle. Bookings can be very erratic. The fine dining market here is still in its budding stage. However, on the day of the Michelin ceremony and after, we experienced a surge of online reservations. It’s something that has never happened before, except for Valentine month.”
Sales have doubled at ramen joint The Underbelly at Karrivin Plaza in Makati, which also got a Bib Gourmand, said Charles Paw, president of Tasteless Food Group. “I was there tonight. There are a lot of new customers and they were taking photos with the Michelin award. It’s a big help talaga to boost a business.”
It’s the Michelin effect—multiply that impact across more than 100 restaurants in the country, and you start to see how recognition from the guide can transform the local dining scene.
And this is just the start. Hopefully, next year, there will be more.
Like Gwendal said, “I have little doubt that after this very bright beginning, there would be more to come, because year after year, we believe that the chefs will continue to raise the bar, elevate their game, and offer even more to their customers from near and far.”
He revealed that they’ve already started working on next year’s list. “It’s a never-ending process. We always have inspectors on the field, constantly reviewing the restaurants. I won’t say that you have to retain your star. You have to earn it. Because every year is a new selection. We look forward to continuing our exploration and sharing the Philippines’ culinary stories with the world.”
His tip for those who want to make it to next year’s list? “My simple advice will be to remain true to who you are. Respect your own personality. Do not cook for the guide. Cook with your heart for your client. And among your clients, there might be a Michelin Guide inspector.”
The Michelin Guide Manila and Environs & Cebu at a glance
Two Michelin Stars
Helm
One Michelin Star
Asador Alfonso
Celera
Gallery by Chele
Hapag
Inatô
Kasa Palma
Linamnam
Toyo Eatery
Bib Gourmand
Manila and Environs:
Bolero
Brick Corner
Cabel
COCHI
Em Hà Nội
Hálong
Kumba
La Pita
Lampara
Los Tacos
Manam at the Triangle
Morning Sun Eatery
Palm Grill (Diliman)
Pilya’s Kitchen
Sarsa
SOME THAI
Taquería Franco
The Underbelly
Your Local
Cebu:
Abaseria Deli & Cafe
CUR8
Esmen
Lasa
Pares Batchoy Food House
The Pig & Palm
Michelin Selected
Manila and Environs:
12/10
Aida’s Chicken
Antonio’s
Aurora
Automat
Ayà
Benjarong
Blackbird
Butcher Boy
Cantabria by Chele Gonzalez
Canton Road
Carmelo’s Steakhouse
Chie Chie’s Pancit Batil Patung
China Blue
Cirkulo
Cru Steakhouse
Deo Gracias
El Poco Cantina (Malate)
Ember
Esmeralda Kitchen
Fong Wei Wu
Fresca Trattoria
Ginza Nagaoka
Gordon Ramsay Bar & Grill
Goxo
Iai
Juniper
Kei
Kodawari (Salcedo)
Locavore (Taguig)
Lola Helen
Lore
Lusso (Legazpi)
Mamacita
Man Ho
Metiz
Mirèio
Mōdan
Now Now
Oak & Smoke
Offbeat
Old Manila
Origine
Osteria Antica
Pablo
Papillon
People’s Palace
Ramen Ron
Sala
Seva
Spices
Steak & Frice
Summer Palace
Super Uncle Claypot
Tandem
Taupe
Terraza Martinez
The Test Kitchen
Txanton
Uma Nota
Umu
Yamazato
Cebu:
Abli
Ato-ah
Coco
Dip
Enye by Chele Gonzalez
House of Lechon
Kamakura
Lantaw (Compostela)
Maya
Pares Pares (N. Escario Street)
Sialo
Socarrat
Green Star
Gallery by Chele
Special Awards
The Michelin Guide Young Chef Award - Chef Don Patrick Baldosano of Linamnam
The Michelin Guide Service Award - Erin Recto, sommelier and operations director of Hapag
The Michelin Guide Exceptional Cocktails Award - Benjamin Leal of Uma Nota
