Seaside stories: Fresh catches and familiar faces
In the bustling heart of Baclaran, near the iconic Redemptorist Church, lies a seafood lover’s paradise: Seaside Seafood Market & Restaurant. Established in 1974—long before “farm-to-table” became a trendy catchphrase—this market has been Manila’s go-to destination for the freshest catch at reasonable prices.
As Anthony Bourdain once said, “Food is everything we are. It’s an extension of nationalist feeling, ethnic feeling, your personal history, your province, your region, your tribe, your grandma.” Nowhere is this more evident than at Seaside, where seafood is more than sustenance—it’s culture, tradition, and a way of life.
I’m not sure about my grandma, but my wife and I have been Seaside fans for decades, from our days in Manila to our current provincial home. It’s our market of choice whenever a seafood craving strikes. A fancy house party? Off to Seaside at 5 a.m. Hosting foreigners or balikbayans? Make that lunch reservation early at one of the paluto restaurants and give your guests a tour of the market. Along the way, you can introduce them to your suking vendor, who will be more than happy to share their expertise on selecting the best seafood.
Take, for instance, the Diego twins—Mary Ann and Miriam—fondly known as “Kambal” (the twins). We’ve seen them relocate a few times, yet their dedication remains unwavering. Mary Ann curates an enviable selection of marine delights while Miriam offers the juiciest fruits this side of Manila Bay (and if it’s not good enough for you, she’ll replace it on your next shopping day). Their days begin at 4:30 a.m.—while most of us are still anywhere but the office. Hard work and a keen eye for quality have allowed them to build comfortable lives, send their children to top-tier schools, and own homes that might surprise those unfamiliar with their trade.
They are not alone in this exclusive metropolitan niche. Vendors selling crabs, shrimp and shellfish, alongside vegetable and ice suppliers, have carved out lucrative livelihoods from sheer hard work. While it may not rival Japan’s Tsukiji Market or Korea’s Noryangjin Fish Market, these Pinoy vendors have built strong relationships with their suki (regular customers), including foreign chefs, proving that a seafood career can be both financially rewarding and personally fulfilling.
The market is a veritable oceanic orchestra, a symphony of colors and scents that lure in seafood enthusiasts like a wriggly bait attracts the day’s biggest catch. There are crabs so pregnant with roe they should have cholesterol warnings; shrimp so fresh they seem ready to swim away; lobsters caught between pleading for mercy and plotting human revenge; and shellfish playfully spitting at each other (until they realize they’re in boiling water with ginger slices and malunggay leaves).
Speaking of prices, at Seaside Market, squid goes for P430 per kilo, gindara (black cod) at P480, and lapu-lapu (grouper) at P680. Salmon steak and belly go for P780 and P550, respectively, while blue marlin and tanigue (Spanish mackerel) are priced at P600 and P650. Crabs range from P700 to P850, depending on their, ahem, personal circumstances—the “apron” or underside flap determines if a crab is male (narrow and pointed), female (wider and rounded) or “bakla” (a transitional crab prized for its fat and roe content). Depending on the season, lucky patrons may also score soft-shelled crabs for an arm and a leg—or in this case, for claws and legs.
Shrimp prices vary based on their culinary destiny—grilled king prawns, tempura, or suahe. Giant mantis shrimp (alupihang dagat) are occasionally available, and when they’re cooked in chili and garlic, they deliver sheer gastronomic ecstasy (though it’s hard to unsee them living their short lives in plastic bottles). Comparing their prices to supermarkets will make you smile at the savings—and frown at restaurant markups.
The paluto restaurants at Seaside aren’t your typical seafood joints. The concept is simple: Buy your seafood from the market stalls and have it cooked to your preference at your chosen restaurant. They charge per kilo, and you can dine in or order to go. Even as a first-time customer, you can have it delivered wherever you need. It’s like having a personal chef—without the exorbitant fees. These establishments bring fresh seafood into dishes that could make a gourmand weep with joy. And the best part? Your taste buds will confirm that this isn’t all hype; it’s the real deal.
The paluto phenomenon has inspired a wave of seafood markets and Dampa-style restaurants across Metro Manila, including Macapagal Boulevard, the MOA bayside, and even Alabang.
Each location offers its own take on the concept, but the heart remains the same: fresh seafood, cooked to your liking, enjoyed in a communal setting that turns meals into cherished memories.
Traditional establishments like these, however, could greatly benefit from stronger government support. With assistance from the Department of Tourism and the Department of Agriculture, markets like Seaside could improve infrastructure, sanitation and outreach. Imagine vibrant seafood hubs nationwide—clean, diverse, reasonably priced, and Instagram-worthy—representing each region while showcasing Filipino hospitality. It would be a grand celebration of the country’s rich gastronomic heritage.
Ultimately, Seaside Seafoods Market & Restaurant and its paluto counterparts embody Filipino home cooking, where food isn’t just sustenance but the heart of family life. It’s where generations bond over garlic butter crabs or sinigang na hipon, adobong pusit, baked tahong, inihaw na lapu-lapu, or salmon or tuna sashimi, reminiscing about the past while creating new memories. It’s that kitchen-table magic, where a well-cooked meal can fix everything from a bad day to a bruised heart.
In essence, these seafood havens are more than just dining destinations; they’re vibrant communities where food, family, and friendships intertwine. Whether you’re a seafood aficionado or a curious newbie, diving into this experience is both exhilarating and a tad messy. But isn’t that the hallmark of the best culinary adventures?
