A fearless journey to the edge of the world
Our recent sojourn of 36 hours was long and laborious—but definitely worth it. From Manila to São Paulo in Brazil, onward to Buenos Aires in Argentina, Santiago in Chile, and finally to Antarctica—we traversed continents and oceans to arrive at the coldest, driest, most windswept, and largest desert on Earth.
From the very beginning, we knew this was not our usual out-of-the-country trip. Antarctica is not a place one simply decides to visit. It is a place one earns.
We were supposed to fly to King George Island after an overnight stay in Punta Arenas to board the Silver Cloud.
But Antarctica quickly reminds you who decides your fate, your travel plans, and your entire itinerary. Mother Nature reigns supreme here. You may plan every detail, but the best moments happen unplanned.
On the morning of our scheduled departure, low visibility and strong winds led to the announcement: all flights were cancelled.
The next day, we finally made it. We proceeded to board the luxurious Silver Cloud—a cruise liner in a class of its own. Shore landings, where you disembark from the ship and ride rubber Zodiac boats, create intimate expeditions to Antarctic sights. Each one was unforgettable—from Deception Island, which includes Whalers Bay and Telephone Bay, to Portal Point, Half Moon Island, Enterprise Island, and more.
At Whalers Bay, our first shore excursion, we learned that thousands of whales were once killed for their oil. They were brought into the harbor and processed there. Rusting tanks and old boilers remain—quiet reminders of that time.
At Portal Point, my nieces Sam and Alex Dayrit climbed the snowy mountain to take photos of the impressive landscape. I stayed at the foot of the mountain and gamely walked among tuxedoed penguins, much like in the film Happy Feet.
Like a dream come true, we spotted magnificent whales, countless penguins and seals, enormous million-year-old glaciers, and icebergs calving into fragments that crashed into the sea within minutes. Can you imagine a slice of seeming eternity—like an intense earthquake, but this time in ice—exploding into smithereens right before your eyes?
An extra shore exploration to Yankee Harbor followed. Here, thousands of gentoo penguins welcomed us into their habitat. Quietly, almost reverently, we felt at one with these adorable creatures as we stepped on the same ice they did. With curious fascination, we watched as they marched like soldiers to the edge of a cliff and dove one by one into the polar waters. It was a miraculous sight.
The Silver Cloud of Silversea Cruises served as both an ultra-luxe floating home and sanctuary. Its design exuded elegance throughout. Outside, powerful winds swept across the ocean, yet inside, we felt warmth and impeccable service. The spa offered complete relaxation, while the gym overlooked endless horizons of water, ice, and sky. The Panorama Deck became our vantage point to observe the shimmering ice, breaching whales, and soaring seabirds. Even the heated swimming pool felt surreal in such an environment.
The restaurants offered extraordinary dining experiences, turning every sip and bite into a celebration in the middle of the icy wilderness. Alex and Sam even took part in the polar plunge, daring to jump into icy waters while secured in a harness—an invigorating encounter with the freezing sea. They also kayaked amid breathtaking expanses of ice and snow.
The Silver Cloud is more than its elegance—it is its people who make it extraordinary. The captain and officers guided us with calm confidence. Our kababayans—Carl Macabasco, Brett Sanchez, Ace Asumbrado, Marc Lawrenze Pastrana, Gilbert Pastrana and Kristian Vargas—brought the warmth of home into the polar cold. They even prepared Filipino dishes like adobo, tapsilog, sisig and bulalo with pride.
According to the gracious hotel director Julio Miranda, he deeply appreciates the Filipino crew for their kindness, hospitality, humor and graciousness. But it was not only the Filipinos—all the women and men we encountered from around the world took loving care of us.
Of course, there is always a lighter side to life. One hilarious anecdote involved a mix-up in the laundry room—someone mistakenly picked up the batch of clothes laundered for my niece Sam. A bit peeved, she began sorting through them, only to find the ship’s most handsome gentleman standing nearby. She coyly smiled and decided it was all right after all—even if he had taken her stash!
Traveling is one of the most precious ways to grow closer to family and friends. On this trip, I realized how special, kind, and caring my companions are—especially my nieces, Sam and Alex. Their energy, humor, curiosity and attention to detail made every moment smoother and brighter.
Nothing and no one is perfect. Despite sunny yet icy weather and generally smooth sailing, we crossed the Drake Passage and encountered rough waves. The force of the sea made our suites sway, but it never dampened our spirits.
Our expedition leader, Mark Dols Mut, said it best: we are no longer vacationers—we are explorers who accept unpredictability and celebrate spontaneity.
On that sunny day when we disembarked from the ship, we were all teary-eyed, having gained not just friends but family. None of us said goodbye, but rather, “See you soon.” It was, inevitably, a vow to experience once again a journey aboard the Silversea fleet.
Antarctica did not simply amaze us—it transformed us.
