The art of coming home: A night with Bar Magda's Carlo Buenaventura at Ayà
The recent discourse around Hapag's batchoy interpretation sparked a heated debate online. Yet, within Manila's dining landscape, Ayà—the bar connected to Hapag—continued pushing conversations forward through meaningful collaborations. Their latest Inayà Series featured a two-night dinner, last Jan. 9 and 10, with Davao-born, Auckland-based chef Carlo Buenaventura of Bar Magda—proving that innovation and tradition could coexist thoughtfully.
What unfolded at Ayà went beyond a typical chef collaboration. The visiting chef was welcomed with a boodle fight or family meal. The team's attention to detail extended to personal touches—Kevin “Nav” Navoa, chef and partner at Ayà, sporting blonde hair in homage to Buenaventura's look; Erin Ganuelas-Recto, sommelier and partner, dressed in browns echoing Bar Magda's earth-tone aesthetic. These gestures transformed the space into more than just a bar; it became a temporary home for visiting talent.
A coming together of series
"Carlo and I go way back to culinary school, where he was already a creative in the kitchen," said Thirdy Dolatre, chef and partner at Ayà and Hapag. "Watching his journey to Auckland has been truly inspiring, especially as he brings Filipino cuisine to the world stage."
Their connection runs deep—they met at CCA Manila, where both were students before Buenaventura headed to New Zealand through a work-study program in Otago.
Buenaventura's entrepreneurial journey began in 2016 when he co-founded The Cult Project with William Cook. This pop-up dining series became his culinary laboratory, and by 2018, he had taken full leadership, creating distinctive dining experiences that would shape his future ventures.
In 2021, alongside partners Matthew Venables and Craig Thompson, Buenaventura transformed Bar Magda into a cornerstone of Auckland's dining scene. The restaurant has garnered significant recognition, including runner-up for Best Restaurant in Denizen Magazine and consecutive One Hat awards in Cuisine Magazine's Good Food Awards for 2023 and 2024—an accolade similar to Australia's prestigious Good Food Guide. The establishment's influence extends internationally, earning a spot in Eater's 2023 Essential Guide to Dining in Auckland—marking New Zealand's first time to be featured in the US-based media platform.
A night of Mindanao meets New Zealand
The evening's menu told stories through Bar Magda's signature sutukil approach—combining sugba (grilling), tuwa (braising), and kilaw (marinating in acid). "We rarely get Filipino ingredients in New Zealand," Buenaventura explained, "so we use the seasonal ingredients over there." This limitation became an opportunity for creativity.
His signature Lamb Ribs Pyanggang exemplified this adaptation. Taking a traditional Tausug chicken dish, he reimagined it with lamb, slowly braised in burnt coconut before finishing on the grill. The Nasi Sinigapuna arrived with cultural weight: “This is part of the cuisine of the Kalagan tribe, a celebratory rice that they normally serve for really big birthdays of the sultan or sometimes weddings."
Even familiar flavors got fresh interpretations—cheese pimiento on fried bonete, adobo as pâté, and a striking version of sinuglaw. The Carrot Inasal showcased technical skill, going through multiple braising, smoking and dehydrating processes to achieve its chewy-like texture, served with créme sinamak, green papaya and beetroot atsara.
Beyond just another pop-up
"It's our expression of showing what Filipino flavors and cuisine can be like if they adapt to their own environment," Buenaventura reflected. He paralleled his culinary school days at CCA Manila: "We'll be learning French cuisine, but there are certain ingredients we can't have because they don't grow here. Then we treat it like using French cooking techniques with Filipino ingredients."
He took particular pride in using Filipino condiments: "Vinegar is not something we use as a side. It's a way to season as well. Same with fish sauce and soy."
The staff's enthusiasm for each dish was genuine. When asked about their favorites, they shared detailed, personal responses that revealed their understanding of the cuisine and pride in this collaboration. This authenticity transformed a drinking spot into something more meaningful—a celebration of Filipino culinary talent, both local and overseas.
As the evening wound down, Buenaventura embraced some guests—a habit he attributed to New Zealand being "big on hugs." It was a fitting end to a night that showed how Filipino cuisine could travel across oceans while keeping its heart intact. The Inayà Series at Ayà is more than just collaborations—it's a platform where chefs can share their personal journeys through food.
Through these dinners, chefs like Buenaventura showed us that Filipino cuisine is as much about personal connection as it is about technique and tradition. Each dish became its kind of embrace—a way of sharing stories, bridging distances, and celebrating our collective culinary journey.
