Iloilo: Beyond historic mansions and glorious food
Iloilo is a city where progress is a way of life and the smiles of its people warm your heart like no other place. Here, one feels the dynamism of prosperity, yet old-world charm and gentle spirit pervade, like a sweet perfume wafting through the air.
I had the privilege of being reintroduced to the beauty, arts, and culture of this haven. A brief hour and half is all it takes for Cebu Pacific to fly passengers from Manila to Iloilo. My dear friends Nico Velasquez and Marco Grajo arranged the visit to Iloilo, along with the provincial government and southwest tours.
Mayor Jerry Trenas was elated that the campaign “Visit Iloilo,” which aims to showcase all that the City of Love has to offer, was well received. With the Iloilo Provincial Government, DOT and Tourism Promotions Board joining hands with the private sector, nothing is impossible to achieve.
The Dinagyang dancers, in their eclectic wear, welcomed and entertained us like gracious hosts, giving a warm salute not just to guests but to family. They swayed and sashayed down the streets, elating and surprising us with their poetry in motion.
They say that the place where you stay is as significant as the activities you engage in. Our invitation to stay at the luxurious Courtyard by Marriott proved that the best accommodations, offering sublime amenities and comfort, exist in the City of Love. True to its word, the hotel extends love to those who arrive as guests but leave as family. The cuisine here is never second best, and the comfort of each room makes you feel exclusively attended to.
Marriott International’s portfolio of select brands has arrived in the Philippines in Iloilo. With an international hotel coming to its shores, this historical province in the Western Visayas is coming out big—its grandest, so far.
Dining at Ani in Park Inn by Radisson Iloilo was an amazing way savor the gastronomic journey there. Area manager Sherwin Lucas gave a warm welcome, as their executive sous chef Diego Trillanes prepared cuisine using the incredible Batuan fruit. Batuan, a souring ingredient in regional Filipino cooking, is commonly used in a dish called kansi, or beef in Batuan broth. This fruit was specially integrated into refreshing Batuan coolers and ice cream. Guests savored famous Ilonggo dishes like kadyos, baboy, langka, and kansi—a flavorful soup of bone broth and spices—as well as their Native Chicken Adobo. For dessert, we indulged in their mouthwatering Kadyos Buko Langka.
Nearby, ready for exploration, is the beautiful Jaro Cathedral. Known for its unique triangular and asymmetrical facade, the cathedral features Romanesque Revival architecture with its arched windows and entryways, square towers, and red-roofed dome.
A visit to Adoro Art Gallery-Museum will hold you captive. It celebrates the spirit of communal cooperation in Bisaya and Hiligaynon cultures. Ed Valencia, who curated this exhibition, will make you vicariously experience a journey. Each artwork speaks volumes about our culture’s richness and resilience. Through Adoro, they aim to foster a deeper appreciation for our heritage and strengthen our community’s collective spirit.
The NHCP Museum of Philippine Economic History, near Iloilo City Hall, is housed in the historic Ynchausti y Compañía building, built in 1905. Stepping inside, I felt immersed in the fascinating evolution of trade and commerce in the Philippines. The museum vividly portrays key historical events that have shaped our economic development.
With a focus on the Filipino journey towards economic self-sustainability and inclusive progress, you can explore its 13 galleries filled with informative exhibits, artifacts, and interactive displays. It was truly enlightening to witness the resilience and ingenuity of our people throughout history.
The Lizares and Lopez mansions evoke the grandeur and history akin to the Vanderbilt and Hearst castles in the US. The grand architecture of these places recreates stories of yesteryear. Like Scarlett O’Hara walking through the hallways, it felt surreal yet very real to go back in time.
Embark on an adventure at the JBLFMU Maritime Museum, nestled within the Molo campus. Unearth treasures from a sunken Ming and Sung dynasty galleon, alongside ancient navigational tools and the university’s remarkable journey from a maritime academy. Authenticated by the National Museum, these artifacts weave a captivating tale of maritime heritage and academic evolution.
The museum of the Philippine Maritime History is the Philippines’ first-of-its-kind facility that features the country’s evolution towards its dynamic seafaring industry. Inaugurated on Jan. 14, 2023, it is housed in the renovated old Customs House at Muelle Loney Street, corner Aduana Street in the city proper.
Divided into two galleries, the museum offers a comprehensive journey through Philippine maritime history. The first gallery delves into the maritime saga until the end of the Spanish era, while the second gallery explores the American period to the present state of the maritime industry.
Exploring Camiña Balay Nga Bato was a delightful journey through history and flavor. Amid the vintage charm of the ancestral house, I savored traditional Filipino treats like Pancit Molo and rich hot chocolate made from their own cacao beans sourced from the family’s farm. It was a truly immersive experience, dining amid the relics and stories of generations past.
The ground floor bustled with weavers crafting textiles, offering a glimpse into the region’s artisanal heritage. Local handicrafts like shawls and slippers as souvenirs are aplenty. It’s worthy to note that this was once the humble home of Fernando Avancena and his wife, Eulalia Abaja, and more anecdotes of their lives added flavor to this experience.
Stories like Arevalo Handwoven Products truly make me proud as a Filipino. Just think about the love, dedication, and hard work poured in by its founders to establish this remarkable handicraft company. The history of Arevalo Handwoven Products is truly inspiring. In the 1950s, women in Brgy. Sta. Cruz, Arevalo, like Maura Junsay Arenal, crafted exquisite jusi fabric from silkworm cocoons, meeting the demand for Barong Tagalogs and Filipiniana dresses. Their craft thrived, even reaching markets beyond the Philippines.
In the 1960s, when President Carlos Garcia implemented the Filipino First Policy, importation of silk threads ceased. However, Filipino resilience shone through. Using locally produced cotton thread, Maura’s sister, Ramona Arenal-Larida, pioneered hablon despite challenges; their determination prevailed.
Today, Arevalo Handwoven Products stands as a testament to generations of tradition and craftsmanship. The inauguration of their Weaving Center was a proud moment, symbolizing their commitment to preserving heritage and propelling it into the modern era.
The rambunctious and diverse group retreated to the cozy ambiance of the Courtyard Marriott Hotel in Iloilo after a delicious gastronomic experience in the city.
We could have dined in the Alfresco Courtyard by Marriott, but we were full to the brim. Alfredo serves delightful salads and savory pizzas straight from the oven. Appetizers, seafood, and meat main dishes, plus for that sweet ending, an array of desserts awaits. Indeed, the Courtyard Marriott Hotel provides the perfect setting to unwind and create and create blissful memories of your stay in Iloilo.
A surreal ride with Epic Escapes’ exclusive river cruise may be taken from The Boat Club. As twilight falls, glide along the dramatic Iloilo River surrounded by a canopy of stars.
Overlooking Jaro Plaza in the historic Jalandoni-Montinola House, the Agatona 1927 Museum Cafe has become a new metro tourist hotspot, offering specialty coffees and teas, local delicacies and pastries, gourmet sandwiches and salads, and traditional Filipino dishes.
Other highlights include dining in Café Arevalo located in Iloilo’s Arevalo district. The haven offers a cozy ambiance with delicious coffee, homemade pastries, and light local meals, making it the perfect spot to relax.
Centuries-old artifacts and ship models are the highlights of The John B. Lacson Foundation Maritime Museum, at the John B. Lacson Foundation Maritime University. Scrutinize the navigational instruments and imagine the times of naval history that unfolded here.
How about recreating the historic site that served as a moat to ward off pirate attacks? Visit the Fort San Pedro located along the Iloilo River. Admire scenic views from this impressive site.
When the weather is cooler, a visit to La Paz public market, which is a foodie haven, is a must. No trip to Iloilo is complete without savoring the comforting and sumptuous La Paz Batchoy. This delicious dish highlights a savory broth of chicken or pork, slow-cooked with liver and complementing spices.
Our journey was filled with remarkable experiences and delightful surprises, making it an unforgettable adventure. One of the many highlights was a visit to the Brandy Museum, where brandy tasting became an instant hit among the group. Interactive exhibits feature premium Emperador and Fundador brandies that can be paired with brandy-infused frappés and pastries from Richmonde Hotel Iloilo.
This delightful experience was complemented by an array of mouthwatering cuisine, including Inasal Empanaditas, Roberto’s Siopao, Ilonggo Bibingka Cheesecake, Tablea Burnt Basque Cheesecake, Ilonggo Valenciana Onigiri with Lechon Ilonggo, and Biscocho. Additionally, we had the unique opportunity to create our own batchoy, a cherished local dish.
Executive chef Ariel Castañeda Jr. and his talented kitchen team informed us of his journey to Macao last June, where he represented Iloilo City for the UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy award.
Upon our arrival at Richmonde Hotel, we were warmly welcomed with an impressive amenity: a Bandi Doughnut placed in a hot-air balloon. This creative and thoughtful gesture set the tone for our stay. Balai Ilonggo also contributed to our delight by providing us with some lovely goodies.
Before our departure, Richmonde Hotel Iloilo generously presented us with a box of treats, including their classic ube and pork floss ensaymada, biscocho, a Fiesta shirt, a Flavors of Iloilo cookbook, and a curated Spotify playlist to enjoy during our travels.
Another memorable part of our trip was the luxurious massage service we indulged in on our second night. We experienced a full-body massage with sampaguita oil by Touch of Moroccan. The delicate slathers of massage oil, infused with the sweet fragrance of sampaguita extract filled the air, lulling our tired bodies into a restful slumber.
We started our third day with breakfast at Tinukib and Casa Gamboa, followed by an enriching exploration of Museo Iloilo. We then visited the UPV Museum of Art and Cultural Heritage, which boasts seven impressive galleries, showcasing the region’s artistic and cultural heritage.
Lunch at Hotel del Rio was a gastronomic delight, featuring their famous callos, a dish that has garnered much acclaim. Later in the day, we visited Balay Remedios, where the highlight was a sumptuous dessert: Otap Tiramisu with langka, a unique and delicious twist on a classic treat.
For those who love alfresco dining, Madge Café in La Paz Public Market serves aromatic coffee in an old-world setting. Local rice cakes or kakanin, steaming cups of tsokolate, or indigenous coffee await.
As they say, the best cuisine is where the locals go if you wish to experience the most authentic dishes of the province.