Kainan in Vietnam: Ayà brings Filipino flavors to Saigon’s must-visit kitchens

Chef Nav, meanwhile, highlighted the Vietnamese approach to preparing broth, which involves gentle cooking to achieve a “really deep and strong flavor while still keeping the soup very clear.”

Both Filipino chefs said they would like to bring elements of Vietnamese cooking into Filipino cuisine, particularly its generous use of fresh herbs. Chef Thirdy said these add “freshness, aroma, and balance to every bite.”

Upstairs' co-founder and Head Chef Hiệp Trương echoed this sentiment on cross-cultural connections. "Some of the flavors will feel familiar, but the ingredients, regional influences and stories behind them will introduce them to different expressions of Vietnamese cuisine. Our cooking uses contemporary techniques, but the flavors remain unmistakably Vietnamese."

Dolatre and Navoa noted the similarities between Filipino and Vietnamese culture, particularly the warmth and hospitality of the people.

"Everyone we met was so welcoming and generous with their time and knowledge. It was such a joy working with them, and that hospitality is something I’ll always remember from the trip," Chef Thirdy said. 

Exploring Thảo Điền

For travelers visiting Vietnam, trying local favorites is a no-brainer. But for those looking to explore beyond what the content creators are saying, two Thảo Điền spots, Upstairs and Little Bear, offer distinct ways to experience Vietnamese cuisine through regional traditions and creative interpretations.

Little Bear, a gastro wine bar, encourages diners to share their meals with friends, much like the Filipino tradition of salu-salo. Chef Duy suggests trying the Shrimp Tartare and Grilled Honeycomb Cake on a first visit. The former pairs kombu-cured shrimp with pickled celtuce, peanut fish sauce, and mustard-leaf emulsion for a playful take on familiar Vietnamese flavors. For dessert, the grilled honeycomb cake comes with brown butter, coffee ice cream, and egg yolk foam.

"Those two dishes capture Little Bear quite well: we start with flavours or ideas people recognize, then take them somewhere slightly different without losing what made them comforting in the first place," he told L!fe.

Chef Duy similarly enjoys offering diners something familiar with an unexpected twist, such as pairing cuttlefish with lemon basil sorbet, stracciatella, and honey vinaigrette. He draws inspiration from his personal experiences, which is also true for Chef Hiệp.

"We're not trying to make food complicated for the sake of it. We want it to be delicious first, but if we can surprise someone along the way, even better," Chef Duy said.

Thảo Điền's mix of locals, expats, and travelers makes it a fitting home for Little Bear, which has been included in the Michelin Guide for three consecutive years.

"It already had a strong neighborhood culture, with people who were curious about food and wine and comfortable trying something new. At the same time, we felt there was room for a place that took the food and wine seriously without making the experience feel too formal, somewhere people could return to often, not only for special occasions," Duy said.

He noted that Saigon's food scene has become increasingly adventurous.

"The dining scene is evolving, but there's still this wonderful spontaneity to it. People love eating together, sharing dishes,ordering another bottle and staying a little longer than they planned. At Little Bear, we want to be part of that," Chef Duy said. "If people come back because they had a great time and discovered something new, that's a pretty good night for us."

Intimate storytelling at Upstairs

With only 10 seats in its main dining room and a semi-open kitchen, Upstairs gives diners a closer look at how their food is prepared and the stories behind each dish.

"For us, that intimacy creates an opportunity to bring guests closer to our Vietnam," Chef Hiệp told L!fe.

"Every dish has a story, and being able to share those stories directly helps close the distance between our kitchen and the people at our tables," Chef Hiệp said, adding that they want guests to feel connected with the dishes, rather than simply eating.

The intimate fine-dining setup is meant to be welcoming rather than intimidating. Upstairs, which earned its MICHELIN Star last June, aims to create an environment where diners directly connect with the team.

"Our chefs bring dishes to the table and share their stories, and our sommeliers take the time to understand what guests enjoy. We want everyone on the team to feel part of that connection," he said. "These conversations also go both ways. Guests share their own experiences and memories with us, and sometimes we discover that a dish means something completely different to someone else."

During our three-day trip to Vietnam, Chef Hiệp took us to Bến Thành Market, a popular tourist stop in Saigon. Hiệp routinely explores local shops and markets to source ingredients and uncover regional culinary traditions, incorporating items like mẻ (fermented rice culture), laksa leaf, wild herbs, and local seafood into the menu.

"A small neighborhood market can show you what people are actually buying and cooking at home, while a wholesale market gives you a sense of the larger ingredient landscape of the city. Both keep me curious and often give us ideas about what we might want to explore further at Upstairs," he told L!fe.

"We aren't trying to arrive at one definitive interpretation of Vietnamese cuisine. We're a young team, and we want to keep learning about our own country and see where that curiosity takes us," he said.

Little Bear is located at 36 Nguyễn Bá Huân, An Khánh Ward. It is open Tuesday through Sunday from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m., with last food orders at 9:30 p.m.

Upstairs is located on the second floor of Little Bear. It is open for dinner from Friday to Tuesday (6 p.m. to 11 p.m.) and lunch on Sundays and Mondays (12 p.m. to 3 p.m.). It is closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays.

Ayà is located at the 7th Floor, The Balmori Suites, Hidalgo Drive, Rockwell Center, Makati City. It is open daily from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 1 a.m.