Rajo Laurel opens up
Leave it to Rajo Laurel to fill a front row with the doyennes of high society side by side with different generations of showbiz names on a Thursday night. After all, Laurel himself has helped shape their image with his deft hand at timeless artistry and on-trend commercial acumen—a rare feat, building up his multi-brand empire House of Laurel. But for this show, Laurel’s VVIP is a less-familiar face in the fashion and entertainment beat: his therapist.
“Rajo Man” isn’t Laurel’s first show or his biggest. But never before has a collection been so cathartic for the designer: “I delved into memories that were uncomfortable (for me) growing up, realizing my sexuality, my gender, the things that made me different.”
Much like exposure therapy, where confronting uncomfortable emotions is key to healing, Laurel’s collection was a reflection of the memories and realizations he’s grappled with.
For Laurel, known for his work in womenswear, expressing himself in menswear is a crucial part of it. “With menswear, I was able to fully internalize the process, really looking at the entire process within my heart and soul,” Laurel says.
I wanted to show the work we do together—the internalization of thoughts and ideas that make me who I am.
The collection, aptly named Pieces of Me, unfolded in a way that mirrored his emotional evolution.
The first set of garments celebrated lightness and nostalgia. Billowing silhouettes in neutral tones of whites, creams, and browns were constructed from breathable fabrics like linen and piña, evoking a sense of comfort and freedom in Filipiniana like the barong tagalog, pañuelo, and sarong. Laurel didn’t want to make a Filipiniana show, but being Filipino, he can’t help but incorporate his roots.
Then came the contrast: a darker, more introspective chapter. The mood of the show shifted abruptly with the second series of garments, as erratic movements and moody music filled the room. Black and charcoal ensembles now dominated the stage, sharply tailored and tightly draped. The designs were a nod to Laurel’s New Wave obsession in the ’80s, an era defined by flamboyance and boundary-pushing aesthetics—and also the time he came into fashion.
The coming together of his influences is best epitomized by a Manton de Manila look, a silk shawl typically worn by the most elegant and reserved women, reimagined into an oversized floor-sweeping cape, emphasizing the swagger in the male model’s walk.
Using fabric as his lexicon, the choices echoed this duality—ultra-lightweight French illusion tulle and delicate silk charmeuse, fabrics typically reserved for women’s eveningwear and bridal collections, were reimagined for men. Expounding on his DNA of fabric manipulation, exemplified by the look worn by Dolly de Leon at BAFTA 2023, transforms soft fabrics into something structured and sculptural.
Laurel paid homage to his family, particularly his Lolo Pepe. Laurel grew up admiring his tailored pieces and military uniforms; it’s not only his first encounter with menswear but also shaped how he perceived masculinity: with authority, dignity, and duty. The final chapter of the collection was an ode to that history—think double-breasted trench coats and berets worn by this generation’s top star Donny Pangilinan.
Loose sashes and layered silhouettes, inspired by the kimono and haori, created a seamless blend of Japanese influences and gender-neutral fashion, challenging the audience to rethink gender codes in fashion—and to find strength in vulnerability and softness. The only woman in the show, Nadine Lustre, walks the talk in an androgynous look.
Laurel bent gender codes in fashion and manipulated textile properties in his first menswear show, best exemplified by a Manton de Manila look.
Laurel bent gender codes in fashion and manipulated textile properties in his first menswear show, best exemplified by a Manton de Manila look.
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Pieces of Me is both reflective and forward-thinking, proving that menswear can be as emotional and autobiographical as any other form of artistic expression. “I wanted people to experience a gamut of emotions—whether it’s excitement, fear, anxiety, or nostalgia,” he said. His therapist must be incredibly proud of him.