Ferragamo, take a bow

Fans old and new of luxury brand Ferragamo are in for a special treat as the Vara installation, which has been traveling through Hong Kong, Singapore, Vietnam and Japan, is finally here in the Philippines.

Currently located outside the Ferragamo boutique near the entrance to Greenbelt 4, the installation features a selection of classic and contemporary Ferragamo shoes with the iconic Vara bow, set on pale pink stands and highlighted with mirrors. Visitors can have their photos taken against this simple yet dramatic installation.

The story of Salvatore Ferragamo is one that inspires admiration. Born in Bonito, near Naples, in 1898, he always dreamed of being a shoemaker. When he was little, Salvatore would observe the local cobbler at work but his father disapproved because he thought it was a humble trade. Then, when the time came for Salvatore’s sister to receive her first communion, the family did not have the means to buy her requisite white shoes. Salvatore borrowed materials and tools, and worked overnight. In the morning, he surprised everyone by presenting a pair of white shoes which his sister wore to church, and he was only nine at the time.

Salvatore immigrated to the United States with some of his siblings to the West Coast, where he was able to observe American production techniques for making shoes. But he found that machinery could not match the artisanal quality of Italian shoes that were made by hand. In addition, he took studies in anatomy to know how best to produce a comfortable fit, and devised the means to give support to the arch. He became the “shoemaker to the stars,” with clients like Greta Garbo, Gloria Swanson, Jean Harlow, Joan Crawford and the Duchess of Windsor.

In 1927, Salvatore moved back to Italy and settled in Florence where his headquarters operate till this day, together with a museum. His eldest daughter Fiamma, who worked with him, earned her own spot in fashion history with the creation of the Vara bow. While making the prototype, Fiamma and her team used grosgrain ribbon which they happened to have on hand. The instruction to the patternmaker was to recreate the bow in leather but he misunderstood, and out of this happy accident the iconic Vara shoe was born. The bow has since found its way onto bags, wallets, headbands and other accessories. The Vara shoe itself has continually evolved over the decades with Fiamma creating new versions, modernizing and making it relevant for women of all ages.

The classic Vara is made in smooth Italian calfskin that enhances the texture of the grosgrain bow. There are contemporary interpretations made in metallics, or in the form of ballet flats. The newer versions include the Vara Rima, an adjustable slingback with crisscrossing grosgrain straps and a mid-height curved heel. The Vara Rima is very comfortable to wear and reminds us that in any age, a graceful slingback will always be feminine and elegant.

Another Vara variant is the Vanilla, a slide with a low curved heel and the Vara bow set on a glossy naplak strap. Romantic and comfortable, this shoe is popular and defines casual elegance.

The Vara installation will be on display at Greenbelt 4 until June 30.