Denim gets sophisticated and lived-in
Yves Saint Laurent often said that he wished he had invented blue jeans because “they’re the most spectacular, the most practical, the most relaxed and nonchalant. They have expression, modesty, sex appeal, simplicity—all I hope for in my clothes.” Who would think that one of the world’s greatest couturiers was talking about the common maong that was once associated with jeepney drivers, laborers, and student activists?
The word is traced to the Spanish port of Mahón, the capital city of Menorca, Spain which historically produced and exported a heavy, durable cotton cloth, and was introduced to us during Spanish colonization to describe similar sturdy fabrics and pants including denim used for jeans. Denim itself is from de Nimes, or from Nimes in France where weavers made the first modern denim in the late 17th century, inspired by an indigo dyed wool and cotton cloth that Italian workers in Genoa, Italy had been producing, favored by sailors and the working class for trousers, overcoats, and dresses. The French word for Genoa is Gênes which in turn is credited for the word jeans. Jeans as we know it today, however, was patented in 1873 with the partnership of Levi Strauss who made sturdy denim pants for miners in the California gold rush together with Jacob Davis who invented the copper riveting on the pockets to make it more durable.
It only entered mainstream culture when Hollywood took it to the silver screen, becoming a symbol of cool in the 1950s with pop culture bad boys James Dean and Marlon Brando. With US colonization, jeans reached the Philippines as rare imported workwear, first seen on American soldiers. When they became symbols of counterculture in the ’60s and ’70s, Manila youth adopted them as well, wearing bell bottoms as a symbol of rebellion as well as modern style.
From the late ’70s to ’80s, designer denim was born as Calvin Klein and Gloria Vanderbilt became status symbols. Hong Kong’s Bang-Bang was a more accessible brand in Manila, seen at the discos together with the US and European imports. Stonewash, acid wash, ripped jeans and skinnier leg cuts tapered at the ankles were super in then, shifting in the ’90s to straight-legged ones with the rise of grunge and hip-hop. The high-waisted “Mom Jeans” also became popular, followed by big and baggy varieties, then the low-rise ones in the early aughts together with flare and bootcut styles. Probably the most influential style to emerge were the skinny jeans which became a closet staple worn daily by all ages from 2010 to 2020, only fading out with the pandemic when comfort-driven, wide leg and baggy ’90s fits took over.
Just like us, many have relegated skinny jeans in all possible shades of colors to an auxiliary closet untouched for the past five years but if you look at the runways, slender silhouettes and updated skinny styles are trickling back into modern streetwear with fresh styling. Denim is actually entering an interesting phase for 2026-2027 since there isn’t a single dominant jeans silhouette, splitting between relaxed volume, refined slimness, vintage references and more expressive designer denim, which our local designers like Carl Jan Cruz, Jaggy Glarino, and Renz Reyes excel in and have many unusual styles to choose from.
Wide leg
and Christian Dior SS2026 Dior
The enormous, relaxed jeans aren’t disappearing but are increasingly cleaner, longer and more sophisticated rather than simply oversized—high- or mid-rise, long sweeping hems, fluid rather than stiff, minimal distressing and worn with fitted tops, blazers, elegant shoes.
Straight and cigarette
and Gucci FW 2026-2027 Gucci
Straight leg jeans can wean you from the wider types and cigarettes are straighter than a skinny but slimmer than a classic straight, slightly tapered toward the ankle, having a particularly sophisticated Parisian feeling.
Bootcut and flares
Tapping into the 1970s revival, it provides some familiarity with skinnies, while giving the leg more movement with fitted hips and thighs, flaring from the knee, longer lengths, styled with boots, loafers, sneakers and heels.
Colored
and Christopher John Rogers SS2026 @christopherjohnroger
Colored denim transitions from spring’s rose tones and sandy neutrals to fall’s more striking hues like cobalt and red or in earth tones, anchored with neutral layers and tactile textures from denim chore coats and plaid capes to military knitwear.
Distressed
and Acne Studios SS 2026 @acnestudios
Faded washes, raw edges, and worn texture give a nod to grunge but are made fresh through contrast with elevated tops, oversized blazers, tailored leather jackets and relaxed barn coats.
Turned up
and Renz Reyes @renzreyes
Bold, clean cuffs shift denim from a basic, relaxed staple to a refined statement piece, paired with sharp trim blazers, structured jackets, sleek kitten heels, pointed boots, minimalist loafers.
Sculptural
and Renz Reyes @renzreyes
For more modern, statement pieces, go sculptural with billowing silhouettes, novel cuts and asymmetry.
Embellished
and Veronica Beard
Embellished pieces utilize handcrafted detailing with an emphasis on texture, technique and individuality: layers of delicate beading, intricate trims, zipper accents, hand-worked rope piping.
Shorts and skirts
and Central Saint Martins FW2026-2027 Central Saint Martin
For warmer days, denim can still be added to the mix with shorts and skirts, complemented with tights and boots for cooler weather.
Jacket
and Isabel Marant FW2026-2027 @isabelmarant
Jackets with dropped shoulders, worn-in vintage washes and boxy structures are versatile to contrast with delicate floral slip dresses or tight mini dresses, slim straight leg pants or sharp tailored trousers.
