Kalinga: A land of dreamy legends where stories of struggle, unity, and peace are woven
There's an old saying that if you don't tell your own story, who will?
There is a place up north where the talented weavers transform their indigenous looms into beautiful works of art. Like a cocoon that emerges into a butterfly, their tireless work to produce unique, world-class tapestries is impressive and amazing.
The verdant pastures and mountains in this haven seem to be the playground of the gods with their majestic falls and crystalline streams. Enthralled by the cool weather, the panoramic view of their lush rice terraces and coffee plantations, you feel transported to nirvana. Indeed, this heavenly place offers a rich diversity of nature, legacy and heritage, as evidenced in their thatched homes built without a single nail and their customs and traditions that remain as old as time.
Welcome to Kalinga, dubbed “The Peacock of the North,” where the Cordillera culture allures with its eclectic dances, songs, music, and exotic tribal finery. A land of dreamy legends and history, it is a place where stories of struggle, unity, and peace abound. A Guinness World Book of Records recipient for the largest gong ensemble and largest banga dance, there is much much more to Kalinga than meets the eye.
Together with the Tourism Promotions Board, led by its indefatigable chief operating officer Margarita “Marga” Nograles and TBP consultant Apples Aberin, fashion designers par excellence, entrepreneurs, and fellow media, we had the privilege of experiencing the precious treasure that is Kalinga.
We started our journey via a very comfortable one-hour Cebu Pacific flight from Manila to Tuguegarao then boarded a well-appointed bus for an hour-and-a-half drive on paved roads to Tabuk City.
Our rambunctious group visited the Naneng heritage village, where weaving is meticulously done by hand in the village homes. We were shown an amazing display of clothes, bags, wallets, belts, caps, and more. From the youth to the elderly, 95% of the people here rely on weaving as their source of income. Traditional clothing is still produced by backstrap weavers and hand-embroidered by local artisans.
We also interacted with the different weaving communities in Mabilong in the town of Lubuagan, which has faithfully preserved the cultural expression of traditional artwork as their livelihood. Worthy of noting is that Lubuagan was once the seat of the Revolutionary Government of Emilio Aguinaldo for a few days before his capture in Palanan, Isabela.
Just like a tattoo that lasts, we will never forget our magical, almost surreal experience in this blessed land.
In Kalinga, there is an impressive synergy between the community and the government.
The TPB, the marketing and promotions arm of the Department of Tourism mandated to promote the country here and abroad, has taken its advocacy to soaring heights. Nograles shared “that collectively working towards generating livelihood, spurring local employment, and caring for the well-being of our communities imbues the spirit of destination stewardship. Our homegrown weavers whose artistry and craft epitomize the pinnacle of excellence can now be further promoted to the whole world.”
After all, these efforts are all in line with President Ferdinand Marcos Jr., who said, “The talent and creativity of the Filipino is truly world-class.” Tourism Secretary Christina Garcia Frasco set up her strong, seven-point agenda, now the driving force at the Tourism Promotions Board.
It was inspiring to learn from Nograles that they have a Community-Based Tourism Marketing Enhancement Program participated in by the different weaving communities from the province. They offer workshops on sustainable packaging and designs, content creation, and social media management. Courses on online shopping platforms, e-commerce, and pitching for investment, sales, and collaboration are also given. TPB is also providing a pledge of assistance with the distribution of starter kits for identified weaving communities of Kalinga Province.
We visited the quaint Awichon Cultural Village, declared by the NCAA as the Kalinga Center for Culture and Arts. With the mountains and thatched huts as our background, we gamely donned traditional wear, danced to the best of their gongs, and savored the slow food and eco-gastronomy of Pasil, Kalinga. Varieties of heirloom rice, organic veggies, and livestock were all in a pot cooked to perfection.
We also explored old, European-styled homes, and prayed in a quaint chapel surrounded by billowing trees with massive trunks. In a nearby gazebo where we had delicious native rice delicacies and hot robusta arabica coffee, we enjoyed the scenic views of the Chico River. With its powerful rapids, this is the best place to experience adrenaline-pumping, white-water rafting.
Some members of our group, led by power couple Apples Aberin and Miles Roces, had the wonderful opportunity of visiting the quiet village of Buscalan, home of the iconic, world-renowned, 106-year-old Whang-od, the last and oldest practitioner of Kalinga tattooing artists. Scholars and enthusiasts flock here to learn the ancient method of “batok,” or hand-tapped tattoo.
One unforgettable moment took place during the Governor’s night sponsored by Gov. James S. Edduba in gratitude for the support given to the Kalinga Tourism industry. As Kalinga fabrics were proudly introduced at a fashion show, models of all ages sashayed in their indigenous-inspired garments. Students from the Kalinga State University and Rizal National High School regaled the audience with their cultural dance performances.
Nograles expressed how honored and impressed she is with Kalinga’s beautiful culture and acknowledged all the tourism officers in the province. “We are here to listen and learn from you and to bring your stories to the world,” she said. “We are your partners and will always be here to support you.”
City Mayor Darwin C. Estrañero said, "The people of Tabuk City and Kalinga collectively feel the honor and pride for considering our place as one of your tourism destinations.”
DOT regional director Jovita A. Ganongan shared their recently launched Cordillera’s Best Tourism Villages and three of the awardees are from Kalinga, namely Naneng Heritage Village in Tabuk City, Balbalasang Proper "Pasual" in Balbalan, and the Pasil Slow Food Community in Pasil, Kalinga.
Just like a tattoo that lasts, we will never forget our magical, almost surreal experience in this blessed land.
We left as better and more empowered individuals inspired by the way they have preserved their lives and continue to share their traditions and legacy with the country and the rest of the world.
Our desire for this trip was to explore what this province was all about and what it had to offer.
Little did we know that our experiences in Kalinga would change our lives forever. Here, we learned to immerse ourselves, embrace their culture and listen to their stories—one weave at a time.
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For more information about Kalinga, call 09491283547 or email [email protected] and look for tourism officer Lorraine A. Ngao-i.
