Patis Tesoro on keeping the Filipiniana alive... forever
The Filipiniana is the quintessential expression of the Philippines' deep cultural heritage. While a resurgence of a modernized version is a welcome sight—with designers blending contemporary cuts, fabrics, and designs with subtle traditional motifs—for the Grand Dame of Philippine Fashion, Patis Tesoro, the Filipiniana is not a trend; it is forever.
"For a country to remain a country that has its own identity," she said, "the Filipiniana has to be forever."
Tesoro said that to lose our sartorial traditions to foreign influences is to risk losing our very definition as a people.
“If we lose out to the West and to other influences, [who] are we as a people? We have to continue,” she said during the press preview of her upcoming fundraising fashion show, “Filipiniana is Forever” last Oct. 8 at the Yuchengco Museum.
Tesoro finds it impressive that younger generations are embracing the Filipiniana, even integrating it into their everyday outfits. She acknowledged, however, the practical reality of its cost: "It really is expensive," she quipped, citing the intensive labor required to source and process fabrics like piña, from the farmers to the weavers.
What makes a Filipiniana designer 'good'
In an era where modern Filipiniana takes forms as simple as the butterfly-sleeved cover-ups and printed Barongs, Tesoro believes that a good designer needs more than just a fleeting trend awareness. It requires a "sense of history" coupled with the increasingly rare skill of knowing "how to cut and sew.”
"Many designers depend on the costurera and the cutter. No. I know how to cut. How many designers still do that? It's not their fault. It's because everything is fast,” she said.
Tesoro views embroidery, which is evident in her upcoming 100-piece collection, as the soul of the craft.
“All my life I [have been] passionate about embroidery. Today, I see a lot of young designers who are passionate. But you have to come from a background of working with your hands,” the fashion designer shared.
Tesoro recalled the 1950s, a time when skills like embroidery were woven into the very fabric of a woman's education.
"Today, factory-made lahat. Boring, diba?"
Ultimately, Tesoro's message is a timeless one about dedication.
"Do we have time? Yes! I wake up at four in the morning and I draw. I'm also a painter... You have to do something else, and that's important. And for your peace of mind, do something with your hands.”
Clothing as a piece of history
Tesoro's counsel is one of investment in quality pieces that can last years, even decades. She exemplified this herself by wearing a 20-year-old pair of silk pants during the event.
But her most profound advice? Do not get buried in your Filipiñana.
"I say to people, please do not get buried in it because the next generation must get it. It’s mana, the inheritance. We must continue that."
The simple Barong or a fine piña blouse is not guaranteed to exist without conscious effort.
"We will not have it if we do not guard it and wear it, conserve it," she warned. “If you have a daughter in the future, what would you give? Your piña blouse. It is inherited.”
For Tesoro, the preservation of this clothing is the preservation of self.
”We as Filipinos must never forget that we are Filipino and that's through dress,” she said.
On Nov. 4, at the Grand Hyatt Manila, Tesoro, together with the Zonta Club of Alabang, will be presenting “Patis Tesoro’s Filipiniana is Forever,” a benefit fashion show that will honor Tesoro’s efforts in empowering women in the creative industry. It will also help raise funds for the Zonta Club of Alabang's projects and initiatives.
Her collection, which is 95% handmade, features 100 wearable pieces from casual to formal that focus on the “craftsmanship and artistry of our people.”
Tickets to the show are priced at P6,000 and are available via this link. You may also email zontaclubofalabang1@gmail.com.
