Deo Gracias: A feast of thanks
After five centuries of Spanish rule, elements of Castilian cuisine seem to be as entrenched in Filipino food as Chinese and even American cooking. Plus, Spain seems to be the country of choice to visit in Europe for many Pinoys lately, increasing their appreciation for authentic Spanish food.
Nestled on a quiet street in Quezon City is a house that, from the outside, looks like a genteel abode from the Fifties, shaded by a border of greens. Almost hidden there at 12 11th Jamboree is an excellent Spanish restaurant named Deo Gracias. This is a destination neighborhood of quirky art galleries (Super Duper) and restaurants spanning Ilocano (Victorino’s), Japanese homecooking (Zipang) and a new Italian spot (La Virginia).
![](http://philstarlife.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/pslife_photos/Maricel_temp/Food and Leisure/2025 - Jan 30/vicky Deo Gracias_ original Basque cheesecake made.png)
Deo Gracias, which is translated as “thanks be to God,” is helmed by chefs Heny Sison and Alex Del Hoya Gomez. The former is a top culinary expert and instructor with a famous school. The latter hails from Burgos in the Basque region of Spain. Recently, they presented a slew of specialties under the heading Primera Vez which means “first time.”
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Chef Heny explained how they were looking for a Spanish chef for the restaurant she was planning and someone suggested chef Alex, who had just come from setting up Las Flores and other Spanish restaurants when the pandemic struck. She interviewed him and now their collaboration has led to probably the best Spanish restaurant in Quezon City, which is always full at night.
Chef Alex explained that his aim was to present new dishes that were more contemporary, with a bit of fusion. Beside our plates was a stack of whimsical drawings he had made himself, using his son’s coloring pens. It gave us an insight into how the chef designs the dishes in his head, complete with the choice of ingredients, layering of flavors and plating that is as artful as his drawings.
![](http://philstarlife.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/pslife_photos/Maricel_temp/Food and Leisure/2025 - Jan 30/vicky As pretty as its drawing.png)
The first starter was as pretty as the picture: pinks and greens on a plate that melded strips of salmon prepared like a Peruvian seviche (tiradito) and topped with a sauce of coconut milk, galangal and lime juice. The foamy puffs of green, known as coriander air, really tasted of coriander even if it felt like you were biting into a cloud.
The popular patatas bravas, another winning starter, consisted of potatoes cut “pave” or in squares, using chilis, Spanish paprika and the Thai chili sauce sriracha to elevate the level of heat. Don’t worry because Spanish food is known for using spices for flavor and not for extreme levels of heat.
![](http://philstarlife.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/pslife_photos/Maricel_temp/Food and Leisure/2025 - Jan 30/vicky The Croquetas de Cecina.png)
Croquetas, the popular Spanish pica pica, are usually made with chicken but to give it a unique twist, chef Alex used cecina. This is like a prosciutto but made with beef and is dry aged for a more intense beef flavor. He set the two croquetas on a base of quince which is a fruit never eaten raw but cooked to release its honey-like flavor. It plays perfectly against the jerky flavor of the cecina.
![](http://philstarlife.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/pslife_photos/Maricel_temp/Food and Leisure/2025 - Jan 30/vicky Taco de lengua is Chef Alex.png)
The next course was a detour to Mexico yet still very much within the palette of Spanish food. Instead of something like a pulled pork, he topped the corn tacos with lengua, using the tips and adding pico de gallo, a chipotle mayonnaise and fresh coriander.
Though the servings looked small, like a tasting menu, the food was actually rich, in addition to being flavorful, so that by the time the rice dish came around, we were starting to get full. It looked like but was not a paella. Instead, it was an inland version of arroz because it had no seafood. The rich flavor came from a hearty Spanish white sausage and the deep, earthy color from black trumpet mushrooms.
![](http://philstarlife.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/pslife_photos/Maricel_temp/Food and Leisure/2025 - Jan 30/vicky Spanish white sausage.png)
The last savory dish featured bacalao, probably the fish most Filipinos associate with Spain. But instead of the dried codfish specialty, this was fresh bacalao that had been steamed and grilled, then covered with a coconut pilpil. This sauce from the Basque region is the recipe of his mom, and was combined with the coconut that chef Alex learned to use in Thailand. In the end, it was still a dish with a distinctly Spanish flavor.
![](http://philstarlife.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/pslife_photos/Maricel_temp/Food and Leisure/2025 - Jan 30/vicky Steamed and grilled codfish.png)
Lastly came dessert and a deliciously light Spanish coffee, perfect for ending a noontime meal. The Manchego cheesecake was pioneered by Deo Gracias in Manila, with the homemade mango jam not put to the side but placed on top and bruleed. It’s then served with Manchego crisps for good measure. But since so many Spanish restaurants have since started serving Manchego cheesecake, the chef plans to retire it from the menu and challenge himself to come up with something new once again in the cheesecake department.
![](http://philstarlife.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/pslife_photos/Maricel_temp/Food and Leisure/2025 - Jan 30/vicky La Tienda the deli section of Deo Gracias.png)
The restaurant is quieter at lunch time and there are also outdoor seating and private rooms on the second floor. La Tienda also has a few tables where you can drop by for coffee and perhaps a slice of that wonderful cheesecake.