Discovering the other side of Singapore through this underrated Peranakan heritage tour

I met my tour guide, Ms. Carol, at Prudential Tower. After exchanging pleasantries, we went to a boutique to get a Nyonya outfit—a traditional Peranakan clothing featuring a kebaya adorned with intricate embroidery and lace, paired with a vibrant batik sarong. This traditional clothing, which symbolizes meaning depending on the motif of the design, is usually worn at weddings and cultural events. 

I was allowed to select my own Nyonya and wear it during the tour, which allowed me to fully immerse myself in exploring the Peranakan history and culture. 

During our visit to the historic streets, Ms. Carol shared some quick facts about the island country and its heritage. According to her, Peranakan culture is a mixed ancestral culture, including Malay, Chinese, and Arab. 

I was a little overwhelmed by the information at first, but I was able to appreciate it when we got to our first stop—the traditional Peranakan houses along Koon Seng Road. 

Originally constructed in the 1920s, the colorful houses along the road have been renovated and are still inhabited. Yet, they remain in their original glory due to protection under the country's heritage law.

The houses feature traditional and vibrant ceramic tiles with symbols of flowers or birds and Chinese motifs of dragons, deer, and dogs. These are used as decorations on the walls of the house and on the concrete fence. According to Ms. Carol, some also have tiles in the front yard, as this is also a way to show off wealth. 

Peranakan houses are typically adorned with colorful pastel hues and feature intricate fretwork on their ceilings and window shutters. They also boast pintu pagar, or swinging doors, which offer privacy when the main door is left open.

To combat the heat before air conditioning, these homes ingeniously incorporated timber windows and a central airwell for natural light and crucial airflow.

The second floor of the houses is extended five feet away from the main entrance to pave a sheltered walkway for pedestrians. Ms. Carol added that the upper floor above the walkway has some kind of peephole, so residents can check who’s knocking on their front door. 

These traditional houses, albeit narrow in the facade, are more spacious than you think, as they extend far back. According to Ms. Carol, the tax on the land back then was based on how wide the frontage was, so building houses in long, narrow shapes is more affordable and ideal for maximizing the land with a limited budget. 

Afterward, we took a quick break at a cutesy coffee shop, Kopi Khoo, which has a straightforward takeaway concept that operates in a literal hole in the wall of her house.  

The small coffee shop offers affordable hot and cold Americanos, lattes, and non-coffee drinks. It is located at the back alley of Tembeling Road in Joo Chiat, owned by 73-year-old granny Paulin Khoo, who was sweet enough to give us a wallet-sized printed photo of Jesus and wished us a nice day before we left and continued the tour.

We later took a stroll along the Peranakan houses that were transformed into functional spaces, like pet grooming salons, cafes, souvenir stores, temples, and more.  

We also got to experience the rich flavors of a warm bowl of Laksa at the celebrated 328 Katong Laksa on East Coast Road. Afterward, we headed to Kim Choo Kueh Chang, where we tried Nyonya Kueh and Nyonya Chang. This historic shop, founded in 1945, also provides an opportunity to pick up unique souvenirs, Peranakan dresses, and jewelry.

Among the traditional buildings in the area is The Red House on East Coast Road, and just across the street, you may chill at Starbucks, which is located within the old police station at Katong Square, which was built in the 1920s. 

We wrapped up our tour with a nice taste of Singapore at the hawker center at Katong Mall.

Getting to know Singapore for the first time in this way was a refreshing experience. The tour was like stepping into the old times; it was impressive how Peranakans got to restore and preserve the houses in their original glory and repurposed them for different kinds of stores, other than turning them into a museum, so they can cater to all kinds of visitors. It's also accessible as the nearest MRT station is Marine Parade on the Thomson–East Coast line.

The Singapore heat was just as draining as in the Philippines, but it almost didn’t matter because I was too occupied with exploring the Peranakan culture.  

Unlike other tourist attractions, exploring this neighborhood is stress-free from crowds and entrance fees, as you get to see all the nice things just by walking around. 

I look forward to spending slow days in Katong, just strolling around the colorful shophouses, while munching on my favorite Nyonya Kueh. 

Disclaimer: The tour was sponsored by Klook.