A high-speed march towards Xi'an's underground army
Imperial China’s spell on me indeed grows exponentially with each compelling visit. I have covered 10 cities, with more than half on official missions.
Oriental history has been familiar to me since high school, and I decided to take my daughter Gabbi along on a side visit to Xi’an while on an official trip to Beijing. Instinctively, I knew that a trip to ancient China would further influence her natural curiosity.
The Terracotta Army showcases ancient China’s power, wealth, and artistic knowledge.
The third largest city: Xi’an
Xi’an, once known as Chang’an, the Eternal Peace City, ruled under the earliest dynasties from the 11th century BC, Zhou, Qin and Han, until the end of the Tang dynasty in 904 AD. It is considered one of the four great ancient cities in China. It was the Silk Road’s starting point and the largest silk producer of that era. It is also the home of the Terracotta Army, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Today, it is China’s third-largest city and the capital of Shaanxi Province.
The best way to optimize your visit to Xi’an is to travel by high-speed train from Beijing West Station, which takes four hours and 15 minutes. It is a relaxing way to enjoy the sights along the way. The next day, we departed mid-afternoon on a two-hour flight on Air China, arriving on time to watch Giselle for the ballet performance of the American Ballet Theater at the National Center of the Performing Arts in Beijing on the invitation of its president, Mr. Wang Ning.
Upon arrival, we took a quick tour of the Buddhist Monastery, the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, constructed beginning in 652 AD. Stored within this complex are the Buddhist sutra translations from India. We passed through the city’s historic fortifications built in 194 AD, strolled the famous Muslim Street, where we tasted local delicacies, and ended in the landmark Drum Tower and Bell Tower, once used for public communication in Xi’an.
The Terracotta Army
On our second day, we set off to the highlight of the trip, the Terracotta Army Museum. The Terracotta Army is a destination we often wished to visit but had yet to have the chance. This trip was the best time to go because foreign tourism arrivals are still at their lowest, surviving only from vibrant local tourists who travel in groups accompanied by tour guides. Our guide told us that the local population accounts for 90 percent of visitor arrivals in historical destinations.
Nevertheless, the Terracotta Army Museum receives around five million visitors annually, making it China’s second most popular tourist destination. At the time of our entry into the museum, we counted six foreign tourists, including us. It was less crowded than we expected, perhaps because it was the city’s first snow day in mid-November.
Be forewarned, though; the Mausoleum is not friendly to seniors. It’s a long walk to the excavated three pits and various viewing levels with steps inside. Plus, one must navigate through the crowd of people taking selfies blocking the exhibit’s view.
This vast collection of life-sized clay soldiers, horses and chariots has captivated the world with its sheer scale and intricate craftsmanship, making it one of the most remarkable archeological discoveries of the 20th century. The first emperor of China, Qin Shi Huang, the leader of the Qin dynasty at age 13, commissioned 700,000 workers and artisans to create it 2,200 years ago. It took 40 years to complete. The infantry in battle formation was placed close to the emperor’s Mausoleum when he died in 210 BC to ensure his eternal protection and accompany him in the afterlife.
The discovery of the Terracotta Army by a group of farmers digging a well in 1974 now allows visitors to witness the grandeur of its history. It is one of the most significant archeological treasures known. The site, covering 20,000 square meters, consists of three large pits filled with around 8,000 terracotta soldiers of different heights, with the tallest as the highest ranking in the army and each with unique facial expressions, hairstyles and armor. Only 2,000 figures were excavated to prevent the oxidation of the colors of the figures.
This remarkable archeological discovery gives insight into China’s cultural heritage and advanced technology used in funerary art during the Qin dynasty: the creation required molds, kilns, and specialized techniques for firing and glazing the clay.
The Terracotta Army showcases ancient China’s power, wealth, and artistic knowledge.
Overall, it was a great trip, and the experience was worth it. Hungry by now, we capped the journey in a restaurant that served Biang Biang noodles—a wide, flat, hand-pulled noodle slurped into your mouth.