Via Mare is basking in its golden era
For a restaurant, to reach the age of 50 is quite a feat. Given the fickle market, surviving five is already an accomplishment, what more multiple decades. It only means that they have managed to appease generations and have successfully adjusted to the times. Such is the case of Via Mare, a longtime brand that recently celebrated its golden year anniversary.
Back in Sept. 5, 1975, at a time when European and continental menus ruled the scene, a small and humble shop situated in Legaspi Village, Makati, dared to change the game and introduce Filipino cuisine in a manner it has never been presented before — with the elegance and grace of a fine dining restaurant. Founded by Glenda Rosales Barretto and friends, it was called Via Mare, Latin for “way of the sea,” showcasing seafood specialties prepared with care and detail and served with warm hospitality.
It carved out a niche and as a consequence of demand and numerous requests, Via Mare eventually extended its services to catering for private celebrations. By the early 1980s, it had established itself to be among the country’s most formidable catering companies, serving banquets for state leaders, celebrities, royalty, and international dignitaries.
It has been relied on to do the high-profile job for occasions like the papal visit of then Pope John Paul II, the state dinner of former United States of America President Gerald Ford, the silver wedding anniversary of the Marcoses, the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation Summit in 1996, the gala of the Philippine-run of West End’s Miss Saigon, the Miss Universe pageant in Manila in 1995, and many other engagements that require precision in cooking and service.
To acclimatize to the evolving environment, Via Mare was overhauled to become a cafe and oyster bar. Self-taught chef Barretto saw the need to shift gears as she got tired of the demands of maintaining a fine dining restaurant. By going casual, she was able to expand the brand while maintaining good quality standards by having a commissary. She may not be as hands-on as before, still she continues to keep up with the times and seize opportunities, with the help of the board, led by president Ramon Roño, a second-generation co-owner.
It has strongly held on to its stable position over the years. As proof, this year, Via Mare was tapped to handle the Main Takeout Counter at the Philippine Pavilion at World Expo 2025 Osaka, offering dishes such as adobong manok sa gata and halo-halo.
Last Sept. 12, it celebrated another milestone in the local dining industry as it reached age 50, something only a few can claim. Held at the Ayala Museum Function Hall, the event gathered close friends, including the family Via Mare first catered for, and veteran performer Leo Valdez, who fondly recalled doing his very first gigs at their maiden Makati branch.
As the Miss Saigon alum sang his set, guests got to feast on a spread of cheeses from Malagos Farmhouse served with crostini, nuts, basil-calamansi marmalade, and dried kundol; appetizers such as bite-sized puto topped with dinuguan and mini okoy; and a lavish spread that included porchetta Manileño, arroz caldo, crispy pancit Malabon, and some of her signatures like the Tinola Flan and Balut Surprise. For dessert, it had to be Via Mare’s bibingka galapong with Laguna cheese and salted duck egg.
“We’re very grateful to be around,” says Roño. “And that we’re still very active in the community, and a lot of our customers, clients and people still recognize us. It’s really just about making our customers happy.”
With over a dozen branches in Manila, and a still flourishing and in-demand catering arm, Via Mare remains to be on top of their game, 50 years in. Golden.
