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Botswana: So this is Genesis

In Botswana, we found life anew.

Here, we didn't just see the animals; we experienced them.

Aboard Cathay Pacific, we embarked on an unforgettable journey from Manila to Hong Kong, onward to Johannesburg, South Africa. My nephew Cito Romualdez had spent the summer in Manila from Boston, and we flew to Johannesburg together before continuing our adventure into the heart of Botswana’s wilderness. 

Our safari was organized by Wilderness, a leading African ecotourism company for 260 years committed to conservation and responsible tourism. Wilderness coordinated our entire journey, arranging our stays at three distinctive camps. Upon arriving at O.R. Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg, we checked into the luxurious InterContinental Hotel located directly across the street from the terminal. Wilderness had an airport representative who met us in the airport and assisting us all the way until we left Johannesburg to Hong Kong. This competent service was a prelude to what was in store for us. 

Elephants cool their feet while out on an Atzaró game drive. 

The following day, we flew to Maun, the capital of Botswana, before taking a helicopter into the wilderness. Atzaro and Mokete are accessible only by helicopter. Kings Pool is accessible by helicopter and land travel as well. From the air, elephants, giraffes, antelopes, and hippos roamed the vast landscape. It was as though God had created the world in seven days and, after completing His masterpiece, decided to stay a little longer in Botswana. 

Experiencing the expanse of the Okavango delta from the air 

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Atzaró is an off-grid, eco-luxury safari retreat in Botswana's legendary Okavango Delta featuring only 12 magical tents. The gregarious Atzaró staff welcomed and performed for us with singing, dancing. Godfrey, our camp host, shared fascinating stories about the wilderness and its inhabitants. Our air-conditioned suite featured a private plunge pool, elegant indoor, and outdoor showers, and views that enticed one to appreciate the indoors as well. 

Warthogs in Atzaró say hello during lunch in the deck of the cabin. 

Excellent cuisine and a well-stocked wine cellar were certainly an added attraction here. Worthy to note, the multi-talented chef Sadi and Tabasco, the sommelier, made our stay in Atzaró camp more memorable.

Wilderness Mokete with its raw and remote character was a hard act to beat.

Lioness and her cubs, part of the Mokete Pride

Mokete means “celebration” or “feast,” making it a fitting setting for our safari, which marked the 30th wedding anniversary of my sister Yvonne and her husband, Pael. Rafael, our guide in Mokete is the best guide who was like a lion and buffalo whisperer. He was one with the animals and from him we learned how to track and find them. We almost mastered the art of detecting which animal had visited the vicinity by distinguishing their footsteps and their whereabouts the night before. All three properties made the occasion special with private dinners, champagne, and handwritten notes conveying their warm wishes for the couple. 

Buffalo with an egret on its head in Atzaró 

Our game drives brought us face-to-face with the drama of the animal kingdom. We watched a lion chase a mongoose that miraculously got away. We also witnessed a pride of lions leaping after a leap of red lechwe and five of them feasting on one that they had brought down. While this was happening, we saw a clan of hyenas loitering nearby waiting to scavenge the remains of the red lechwe, reminding us that nature follows its own relentless cycle of life and death. 

Lighting a bonfire is a true camp experience at the Kings Pool. Photos by Yvonne Dayrit-Romualdez

A view of the safari right next to our luxurious tent. Photos by Yvonne Dayrit-Romualdez

Fish and chips with French fries and aioli sauce in Kings Pool. Photos by Yvonne Dayrit-Romualdez

The all-time favorite breakfast of Pael, sausages, egg, grilled tomatoes and bacon Photos by Yvonne Dayrit-Romualdez

Exploring the Africa wilderness via helicopter: (from left) Carin and Yvonne Romualdez Photos by Yvonne Dayrit-Romualdez

Enjoying a special lunch by the Mokete camp with a complete bar are (from left) Carin, Yvonne and Cito Romualdez Photos by Yvonne Dayrit-Romualdez

People who made this safari extraordinary: (from left) Joe, Ludo, chef Sadi, LJ, Godfrey, Diva, Keba, Atcha Photos by Yvonne Dayrit-Romualdez

Lighting a bonfire is a true camp experience at the Kings Pool. Photos by Yvonne Dayrit-Romualdez

A view of the safari right next to our luxurious tent. Photos by Yvonne Dayrit-Romualdez

Fish and chips with French fries and aioli sauce in Kings Pool. Photos by Yvonne Dayrit-Romualdez

The all-time favorite breakfast of Pael, sausages, egg, grilled tomatoes and bacon Photos by Yvonne Dayrit-Romualdez

Exploring the Africa wilderness via helicopter: (from left) Carin and Yvonne Romualdez Photos by Yvonne Dayrit-Romualdez

Enjoying a special lunch by the Mokete camp with a complete bar are (from left) Carin, Yvonne and Cito Romualdez Photos by Yvonne Dayrit-Romualdez

People who made this safari extraordinary: (from left) Joe, Ludo, chef Sadi, LJ, Godfrey, Diva, Keba, Atcha Photos by Yvonne Dayrit-Romualdez

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King's Pool is one of Botswana's most iconic safari camps, set on the large and wildlife rich Linyanti private reserve. One highlight here were elephants walking right beside our dining table while we were having lunch, and they were eating their favorite Mopane tree. Another major highlight in Kings Pool was seeing the herd of elephants cross the Linyati river from Namibia to Botswana. A feast for the eyes and soul. Adults and baby elephants crossing the river together in a line with the babies completely submerged and all you can see is its trunk above the water like a snorkel allowing it to breathe. My niece, Carin Romualdez termed it perfectly, she called it an elephant snorkel! What an unforgettable sight to behold! 

Having sundowners while watching the hippos goofing around in Atzaró 

Our adventurous game-drives revealed elusive leopards, majestic elephants, formidable buffaloes, and prides of lions. There were also wild dogs, jackals, hippos, ostrich and even crocodiles. One of our favorite rituals was the daily sundowner. Our ranger transformed the back of the jeep into a makeshift bar, serving amazing South African wines, local beer, gin, Amarula, and other refreshments. Against a sky ablaze with orange, gold, and crimson, we watched the sun sink beyond the horizon and raised our glasses to life, love and laughter. 

A huge male leopard comfortably rests after a meal in Atzaró. 

Beyond the wildlife, luxurious accommodations, and exceptional hospitality, what I will remember most is sharing this journey with family. Botswana instilled in us that luxury is not always measured by the luxurious suite or the sumptuous meal. Sometimes, it lies in watching elephants wander nearby, hearing giraffes rustle the leaves under a star-filled sky or celebrating three decades of marriage with the people we love. 

Truly, Botswana is Genesis at its finest.