Exploring celebrity chef André Chiang's quest to reveal Taiwan's culinary identity through RAW
What is Taiwanese cuisine? For renowned chef André Chiang, it's a question with no easy answer, but a taste better experienced than explained. He believes that his sought-after restaurant in Taiwan is "the best platform for it."
“If I ask any foreigner what is Taiwanese cuisine, I don't think anyone can explain or know what Taiwanese cuisine is. The problem is we never try to explain what Taiwanese flavor is in an international way,” he told PhilSTAR L!fe.
“We, Taiwanese, among us, we know what it is, we enjoy having it, but we don't know how to share the principle and unique combination of Taiwanese cuisine or Taiwanese flavor,” he added.
Chiang, lauded with titles from Rising Chef to Michelin stars, saw a missed opportunity within Taiwan's vibrant food scene and bounty of fresh produce. This inspired him to revolutionize Taiwanese cooking and influence younger chefs to explore the hidden potential of their country’s ingredients through his restaurant in Taipei, RAW.
“I realized that we have a lot of great ingredients compared to any other countries, but we never really appreciate all those ingredients and turn them into something more valuable,” he shared with L!fe.
The bold move
Chiang left Taiwan with his mother at the age of 13 to move to Japan. After starting a career in France—where he served as the former head chef of the three Michelin star restaurant Le Jardin des Sens—and later opening his flagship Restaurant André in Singapore, Chiang packed his bags and returned to his home country to open RAW, a “bistronomy” or bistro-style restaurant with a focus on fine dining.
This move marked a new milestone in Chiang’s career and also put RAW—which is said to be “the most difficult restaurant to reserve in Taipei”—on the culinary map. RAW was later recognized as the best restaurant in Taiwan by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.
“I was born in Taiwan, so I really have a big attachment to Taiwanese culture,” he told L!fe. “We opened in 2014 and it's another era where all these Asian local ingredients start to bloom.”
Unlike fine dining restaurants with an elegant atmosphere and personalized service, this bistronomy provides a more relaxing and casual ambiance—a place where guests can enjoy conversations “while having a fine dining experience and high-quality food.”
Locally-sourced
The restaurant aims to introduce Taiwanese cuisine to a wider market through experiences that even international audiences can relate to. Using Taiwanese ingredients and flavors and applying Western cooking methods, Chiang hopes to “showcase [Taiwan’s] taste and our culture.”
I realized that we have a lot of great ingredients compared to any other countries, but we never really appreciate all those ingredients and turn them into something more valuable.
Chiang added that the goal is to make known to their customers that “everything you see and taste is from this land.”
This immersion takes shape not just in the locally sourced ingredients but also in the meticulously crafted interiors, the thoughtfully chosen lighting, and the unique artwork.
“It's kind of like a gallery so to speak. I guess my intention is just to show all the best possible that we could get in Taiwan in different aspects so that all the diners that come here can have their own takeaway of what Taiwan can offer,” Chiang shared.
A unique, memorable experience
Securing a table at this restaurant may be quite difficult, but Chiang promises diners will be irrevocably captivated.
RAW, which was recently featured in Discovery’s Food Masters: Taste of Taiwan TV special, never repeated a dish in its ten years of existence. Its seasonal degustation menu changes about six times a year using available ingredients based on Taiwan’s 24 micro seasons, assuring guests a new experience on each visit. And while fine dining often carries a hefty price tag, RAW surprises with its relative affordability at NTD 6,888 (P12,402) per person.
“What the guest could expect, I think, is to rediscover Taiwanese flavor, unexpected Taiwanese culture, and to be surprised. That I can ensure anytime, any day of the year. When you come, you will have a completely different experience,” the celebrity chef said.
One month, you might find yourself savoring sliced scallops with roasted enoki mushrooms with a touch of smoked basil. The next, you could be having oysters with horseradish enveloped in a marshmallow-like "bun" made of fruit.
“You can't really expect what you're going to get the next time you're in the restaurant. But one thing that you're sure of is you'll be surprised. It's going to be like a brand-new restaurant,” he continued.
There is one dish though that remains constant on the menu: the Memory 1997. Chiang's very first dish is a whipped foie gras custard topped with wild mushrooms and black truffle sauce. He shared that he cooks this at home on special occasions.
For the future generations
In 2018, Chiang closed his two Michelin-starred Restaurant André in Singapore to return to Taiwan and train the next generation of chefs.
As the only Chinese-born chef ever named in the World's 50 Best Restaurants, Chiang is hoping more chefs would pave the way for the world to discover what Taiwanese cuisine is all about.
“Locally, we need to start to realize what our identity is. That is what RAW has been doing for the past 10 years—to find our own identity, who we are, why we use certain herbs or certain flavor combinations—and that shows our uniqueness,” he shared with L!fe.
“I think to be able to spread the word or show our identity internationally, it requires more internationally known chefs. All these top young chefs need to be able to step out of their comfort zone. They need to be able to get into all the international organizations, to promote and to let more people know who we are and what we do.”
Food Masters: Taste of Taiwan is airing on Discovery and Asian Food Network.