Chef Robby Goco brings the heart of Greece to Silang, Cavite with Elaia • PhilSTAR Life

Five minutes from the Tagaytay Ridge is a Greek restaurant that is quietly raising the bar for dining in Silang, Cavite. It’s an open secret for residents of the community off the ridge. But for weekend warriors from Manila, who are used to having hot, familiar bowls of bulalo in Tagaytay, this serene and flavorful Mediterranean escape is a pleasant surprise—one that is turning out to be worthy of many return trips.

Elaia by Cyma is not just any other restaurant. The latest Greek offering (following Cyma and Souv!) from Chef Robby Goco boasts a succulent menu that promotes longevity. Take a hint from its name—”elaia” means “olive” in Greek.

The al fresco areas of Elaia by Cyma are perfect for lounging with cocktails in hand. Courtesy of Elaia

In blue zones, where residents live long, healthy lives, one of the most common pantry items is olive oil. Experts say this anti-inflammatory oil that is rich in antioxidants lowers the risk of heart disease, cancer, and even dementia.

It’s this life-affirming staple—extra virgin olive oil (EVOO)—that’s most prevalent in Elaia’s kitchen. Almost everything here is stewed and braised in EVOO.

Authentic Greek cuisine

In 2000, Chef Robby spent six months in Greece learning about the local cuisine. Twenty-three years later, he went back to marinate in the cooking techniques of Northern Greece. Up there in the mountains, he mastered the art of going back to the basics of cooking using the low and slow method—a long cooking time over a low flame.

Chef Robby’s Greek exposure also confirmed his insistence on using only the best, freshest ingredients, which makes Elaia’s location perfect. Standing in the municipality of Silang—the largest agricultural area in Cavite—it is surrounded by farms, many of which supply the restaurant daily with fresh vegetables and other produce.

“Cyma is about city dining in Athens. Souv is like Cyma’s younger, more adventurous sister who’s travelled abroad and who has come home with a tattoo and carrying all these global ingredients,” says Chef Robby. “With Elaia, it’s as if there’s a Greek grandmother cooking in the kitchen.”

Staying true to the rustic cooking techniques in the mountains of Northern Greece, as demonstrated to him by a friend’s grandmother, Chef Robby cooks his meats only on a charcoal and wood fire grill.

The result, as you would imagine, is a hearty meal that transports you to the Balkan Peninsula.

Elaia’s version of the Greek village salad (horiatiki salata) has, among many other fresh ingredients, Kalamata olives, feta cheese, and the juiciest tomatoes and bell peppers harvested locally. This salad, according to Chef Robby’s team, is “often imagined as a farmer’s breakfast or lunch and is served at almost every meal in Greece.”

Greek Summer Village salad Courtesy of Elaia

Another fan favorite is the dip sampler: tzatziki, tirokafteri, melitzanosalata, and hummus served with crusty bread baked daily in Elaia’s kitchen.

The dip sampler features tzatziki, tirokafteri, melitzanosalata, and hummus. Courtesy of Elaia

For the main course, it would be a big mistake not to order lamb at a restaurant where the chef calls himself the “lambassador.” The arni sto fourno (roast lamb) is Australian lamb shoulder roasted for at least eight hours. It’s tender, juicy, and will make you momentarily forget the current topic of conversation.

The juicy roast lamb is one of the early bestsellers at Elaia. Courtesy of Elaia

Complement this glorious lamb dish with one or two ladera dishes. These are locally sourced vegetables simmered in EVOO. The Spanakorizo (spinach rice) and Fasolakia (green beans), in particular, perfectly flaunt Mediterranean flavors.

Spanakorizo (left), or spinach rice, is tangy with layered textures. Fasolakia (right) is a dish that celebrates green beans tossed in extra virgin olive oil. Courtesy of Elaia

To wrap up the meal, you can’t go wrong with the Ekmek (Greek tiramisu) and a slice of Sokolatopita (chocolate cake with brown butter buttercream and salted caramel).

Ekmek is a Greek dessert with layers of Greek tiramisu, kataifi, semolina custard, and whipped cream. Courtesy of Elaia

As for drinks, mixologist Cholo Valencia takes care of Elaia’s cocktail menu. Try a glass of the Elaia for a nice, mild buzz that will make you smile happily at your meal.

Mixologist Cholo Valencia is the brains behind Elaia's specially curated cocktail menu. Courtesy of Elaia

When you’re ready to go, you might want to shop for some fresh ingredients at Elaia’s country store so you can make your own Greek salad at home.

“The secret behind a proper Greek salad is perfect simplicity using quality ingredients finished off with extra virgin olive oil,” shares Chef Robby. “Here, the ingredients speak for themselves.”