All-Filipino heart and soul in a spoonful
There are dishes that tempt you at first sight. And then there are those that dare you to take the first spoonful.
When Siklab invited The STAR to sample its new lineup of regional specialties, one dish immediately stood out—not because it looked irresistible, but because it looked almost intimidating. Called Tiyula Itum, the Tausug delicacy arrived in a bowl of jet-black broth, so dark it seemed to swallow the light.
Its unusual color comes from burnt coconut, a defining ingredient that gives the beef stew its signature smoky depth. To the uninitiated, it isn't exactly love at first sight. In fact, it's probably the kind of dish you'd hesitate to order if you spotted it on a menu. But that, perhaps, is precisely what makes it worth discovering.
The dish is one of four new regional specialties introduced by Siklab, a restaurant that distinguishes itself by pairing culinary creativity with cultural storytelling. Here, heritage recipes are treated with respect while inviting diners to venture beyond the familiar.
The dark horse of the menu
Simmered with palapa, herbs, and spices, the Tiyula Itum arrives like a dark mystery. At its center sits a piece of torched bone marrow, glistening atop an obsidian broth, inviting you to look past its appearance and discover the richness beneath.
The biggest surprise came with the first spoonful. Expecting something bold and challenging, I instead found flavors that felt oddly familiar. Tiyula Itum reminded me of Chicken Binakol, with its soothing broth, delicate sweetness and comforting warmth. Its signature smokiness lends depth and complexity, but at its heart, it is a dish that comforts rather than confronts.
Tiyula Itum is one of the signature dishes of the Tausug people of Sulu, where the traditional technique of charring grated coconut gives the stew its distinctive color and aroma. While beef is commonly used, some communities also prepare it with goat, each version reflecting local tastes and traditions.
Siklab stays true to the soul of the dish while refining its presentation, making it approachable for diners who, just like me, may be discovering this southern Filipino classic for the first time.
If Tiyula Itum is the meal's quiet revelation, the restaurant's other new regional offerings are equally compelling, each telling the story of a different corner of the Philippines through ingredients, technique, and tradition.
The journey then turns to the sea with crisp-fried Pampano, a fish prized for its rich, buttery flesh. Served with Siklab's house-made mango sambal, the dish strikes a lively balance of sweetness, spice, and acidity, complementing rather than masking the delicate flavor of the fish.
From Sulu and beyond
From Sulu, Siklab's culinary journey continues across the archipelago, with each stop offering a taste of a different region and the stories woven into its cuisine.
In Luzon, the spotlight falls on Igado, an Ilocano favorite that proves comfort food doesn't have to be complicated. Tender pork strips and liver are gently simmered with red bell peppers and green peas, resulting in a deeply savory stew that's best enjoyed the Filipino way—with steaming rice.
Igado can be tricky to get right. If the liver isn't handled properly, it can leave an overpowering, gamey aftertaste. Thankfully, that's not the case here. The liver lends richness without overwhelming the palate, allowing the pork and vegetables to shine in a stew that is hearty, balanced, and deeply satisfying.
The final stop is the Visayas, where Siklab reimagines the classic Humba by replacing the customary pork hocks with tender liempo. Braised with puso ng saging, tausi, and pineapple, the dish delivers the signature sweet-savory flavors that Filipinos know and love, while the liempo lends a richer, more indulgent texture.
The perfect pour
A meal that travels across the Philippines deserves drinks that are just as rooted in local flavors.
Siklab's new beverage offerings celebrate familiar Filipino refreshments, beginning with fresh buko juice served in its own shell. Simple, cooling, and unmistakably tropical, it's a reminder that some of the country's best flavors need little embellishment.
Fans of taho will also find a comforting surprise. No longer reserved for early morning street rounds, the beloved soy-based treat is reimagined as a drink that can be enjoyed at any hour, delivering the same silky sweetness that has endeared it to generations of Filipinos.
For those dining in groups, Siklab's signature palamig selections are now available in one-liter pitchers. Whether it's the nostalgic Siklab Gulaman, the tangy Sampalok Limonada, or the bright, citrusy Binibining Dalandan, each offers a refreshing counterpoint to the restaurant's bold regional specialties.
In a country as diverse as the Philippines, every region expresses its identity through food. Siklab's latest offerings celebrate that diversity with respect, curiosity, and just enough creativity to make even familiar dishes feel fresh again. It's proof that the best journeys don't always require a plane ticket—sometimes, they begin with the first spoonful.
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