The unknown ‘faces’ of cacao
Have you ever seen cacao beyond a chocolate bar? At Gallery by Chele, you'll experience just that. Led by chef Chele Gonzalez, Gallery by Chele isn't just a restaurant, it's a culinary institution, a laboratory of exploration that delves into Philippine ingredients and their uses.
Carlos Villaflor, Gallery by Chele's executive sous-chef and partner, echoed this sentiment: "People know that chocolate is made with cacao, but most don't know that cacao is also a fruit."
Recently, I had the opportunity to explore their new menu, reimagining the unknown faces of cacao. It was more than just a meal; it was a palate and eye-opener.
When one of the chefs who came by the table asked, "Have you ever seen cacao?" I was struck. Despite years of indulging in chocolate, I'd never encountered cacao in its raw form. He then showed us cacao before chocolate, giving us a whiff and a taste of its different forms.
This question served as a reminder of the chef's superpower: shedding light on overlooked ingredients and compelling people to pay attention.
This menu transcends execution; it's a revelation of cacao's versatility. From tangy vinegar to delicate syrups, each dish showcases the potential of this humble fruit. Every bite tells a discovery story at Gallery by Chele.
Visiting Davao and striking gold
Where did this fascination with cacao begin? Their journey to Davao was a game-changer for Gallery by Chele, sparking a profound connection with cacao.
Collaborating closely with Rob Crisostomo of Tigre y Oliva, they explored cacao as a tropical fruit, not just a chocolate ingredient. They ventured into Davao's cacao farms, discovering mucilage or cacao pulp and the cascaras or shell, usually discarded in chocolate-making.
This discovery fueled chef Chele Gonzalez's creative drive. He brought this back to the restaurant with his team for experimentation, "Gallery by Chele is and always will be my flagship restaurant," he asserts. "It's where Carlos and I have dedicated ourselves to exploring possibilities and our core values: creativity, teamwork, and learning."
R&D chef Kevin Menendez played a crucial role in experimenting with cacao. "We've been working with Rob Crisostomo from Tigre Y Oliva Craft Chocolate for a while now," Menendez shares. "Recently, we found out that they now are capable of extracting and pasteurizing cacao pulp juice." This discovery opened up new avenues of experimentation.
The team utilized the extracted pulp juice, undergoing a stabilization process to concentrate it into syrup — a unique sweetener substitute featured in the new menu. Also, they repurposed cascaras or cacao shells to craft fermented products like vinegar and kombucha, further enhancing the restaurant's dishes. The possibilities were infinite.
The menu and people that share its story
Years of research and experimentation resulted in a 10-course interactive menu that's insightful for any diner. The team behind Gallery by Chele is confident and experienced but also proud when they present each dish, elaborating on each story of how the dish came about. It's a masterclass in show and tell, whether it's a sweet or savory dish.
One of the standout dishes is Cacao Ceviche, which marries Filipino and Peruvian influences. It features cacao pulp extract, dayap or local lime, and pickled cacao. There is also the Duck Cacao, which combines duck, beetroot, mole sauce, and fried rice.
Another dish with a whimsical touch is the dessert, a meringue resembling a cacao pod, served with cacao champagne sorbet and ganache. This menu cannot go without chocolate, but again, it's taken a step further with one of the desserts: a cacao mousse, topped with chocolate ice cream and tuile, finished with cacao syrup and a pour of homemade cacao kombucha.
Each dish at Gallery by Chele confirms chef Chele and his team's commitment to culinary innovation and creativity. By showcasing the diverse applications of cacao, they invite diners to appreciate local ingredients, all while delivering an unforgettable dining experience characterized by precision and refinement.
During one of the 10 courses, chef Chele shared his love for electronic music and DJing, likening it to therapy: "Music is my therapy; DJing is a bit like handling the dinner service here."
This dining experience is a precisely curated playlist. Each dish seamlessly connects, guiding diners through the intricate journey of cacao, from its growth on trees to its transformation processes.