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Editor’s picks: From seafood to sushi to pizza

Published Dec 19, 2024 5:00 am

Food lovers usually plan where they will eat their meals. But sometimes, good food comes unexpectedly. The way to discover good food is by eating—and eating everywhere. But there’s one piece of advice I always remember from Therese Coronel-Santos, a chic gourmet who enjoys eating but doesn’t worry about excess pounds: Eat only when you’re hungry. And eat only what you find delicious—that’s the way to avoid unwanted calories.

Oysters and moules at Carmelo’s Steakhouse: Well done

What would a person who doesn’t eat meat enjoy in a steakhouse?

In my past life, I was a steak lover, with filet mignon, dripping with the luscious taste of bacon around it, as my favorite. Having turned pescatarian decades ago, I now find seafoods more delectable and inviting. But when a dear friend invited me to his favorite—Carmelo’s Steakhouse at Proscenium in Rockwell Makati—came with an open mind—and an open palate.

Cristina Santiago continues her dad’s  legacy of excellent dining at Carmelo’s Steakhouse.

While he opted for the house’s specialty—Certified Angus Beef—for me, he ordered something he knew I would succumb to: oysters. A combination of fresh and baked oysters melted in my gluttonous mouth.

The clincher: Moules Mariniere—a favorite that I used to enjoy only at Maria Luisa’s Garden Cafe, while dipping slices of bread in its sauce till the whole dish was wiped out. I totally surrendered.

Oysters and Moules Mariniere are bestsellers along with Truffle Burrata Pasta.

But there was more: Spaghetti Vongole, nicely cooked in butter sauce and white wine. And Tuna Tataki with miso. And—tada!—lobster, sinfully baked to perfection.

We were both full by the time the dessert came and I forgot the names of our sweet endings, though they lingered in our taste buds.

The ambience is elegant and comfy at Carmelo’s Proscenium in Rockwell.

The nice and comfy ambiance helped make our dining experience a delight. Just then, a pretty lady approached our table to check on us. She was chef Cristina Santiago, looking more elegant than kitcheny, with neither toque nor apron.

“Many of our dishes, like the moules which I tried in Paris, were part of the little black book I kept while traveling with my dad,” Cristina smiled. Her late dad, Melo Santiago, was the pioneering restaurateur who opened the first steakhouse in the Philippines, offering certified Angus beef in 1987. “Carmelo’s Steakhouse is actually our tribute to his legacy,” added Cristina.

It is, indeed, well done.

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Carmelo’s Steakhouse is located on the 2nd floor of Proscenium Retail Row in Rockwell Makati. For reservations, call 0915-9038005.

Feeling close to the chefs at Kei Maki

Open kitchens are wonderful because these allow restaurants to have transparency. Literally. Diners can see through huge glass windows how clean the kitchen is, and how chefs handle or mishandle the food.

Edamame Foam 

But there’s something better than this: the bar layout for Japanese dining, where diners sit on stools around the bar, watching chefs up close while they prepare each dish. It is an immersive and intimate set-up where chefs can practically bond with diners.

I experienced this recently when Ana Lorenzana de Ocampo—the restlessly creative restaurateur who opens dream restos—asked me to try her Kei Maki in Taguig. 

hamachi sushi

Ana says her kappo-style bar enables an engaging culinary journey where chefs bring diners, every step of the way to the making of each dish. In my case, I felt transported to Tokyo with its memorable meals, from chic Ginza to down-to-earth Tsukiji Market. For a while, I thought I was in Japan because I was seated next to several Japanese business people.

Kei Maki’s luncheon specials 

Each dish was fine and exquisite. There was Tuna Tartare Toast served with mill bread and topped with caviar. The Crispy Rice with Edamame Foam and the Oyster Mushrooms with Green Beans in a rich sesame coating were memorable. I was told it took months for them to perfect their temaki hand rolls, perfecting the balance of flavors and the quality of their nori and rice. Their menu showcases premium seafood like toro, uni and hamachi, sourced both locally and internationally.

hef Kei Takahashi and Ana Lorenzana de Ocampo at Kei Maki, the new fave of Japanese food lovers. 

Kei Maki was born out of the shared vision and passion of chef Kei Takahashi, chef Walter Manzke and Ana. Their collaboration was a natural fit, given chef Kei’s 30 years of experience working in Michelin-starred restos like The French Laundry, Melisse and Arzak.

Chefs Kei and Walter Manzke with Ana at the bar.

Kei Maki is my new patch of serenity, calm and good Japanese food. And feeling close to the chef.

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Kei Maki is located on the ground floor of Verve Tower, 26th St. corner 8th Ave. in Taguig. For reservations, call 0917-1583614.

Does Jabroni’s Nyc Pizza remind you of Home Alone?

I have just found my universe. In a slice of pizza. 

I first tasted it at Rockwell’s Power Plant Mall where I saw people lining up at Jabroni’s New York Pizza. Curious, I ordered a slice of The White, P220. I loved it—truffle ricotta in a huge slice, with so much goodness, just filling and creamy enough for lunch. I ordered The White for a second, third, fourth time, until I got satiated.

The White’s slice of goodness 

So for a change, I tried The Popeye—predictably it had spinach. It was good but I found it a bit dry. A loyalist, I went back to The White. I haven’t tasted this anywhere, I told myself. After all, for the longest time, my comfort pizza and my officemates’ fave as well has always been Friday’s Special by Shakey’s—thin crust, with shrimps and anchovies which we ordered conveniently for delivery. We still do.

I wish Jabroni’s could have a similar version. But I sensed this brand has a rebel vibe—it wants to be different. Because it is.    

Jabroni’s allows diners to combine their faves in one pizza. 

One time when the line wasn’t that long, I asked the cashier about Jabroni’s. I found out it was founded by Emilio Ocampo and his friends from ISM days. Of course, I know Emilio as the boy reared in a family of creatives—with pioneering success in retail. Spending much of his young years in New York City where he took up business, Emilio, 25, with creativity in his genes, and exposed to the best in lifestyle trends, has the makings of a provocateur, a visionary in the food industry.

The list of flavors and prices at Jabroni’s. 

Jabroni’s has 12 flavors—The House, Vodka, Pepperoni, Vodka Pepperoni, White, Garden, Guido, Popeye, Amboy, Supreme and Buffalo Chicken. The price per slice ranges from P110 to P235, and a whole pizza from P545 to P1,710. But you can order a combination of different flavors in a giant box.

Did Emilio’s search for a good pizza begin when he watched Home Alone and Ninja Turtles as a boy? I would have asked him but he was too busy mapping out new branches of Jabroni’s, and I, too, was engrossed in my universe.

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Jabroni’s NYC PIzza at Rockwell’s Power Plant Mall is open for dine-in, takeout and delivery. Call 0968-3884192.