Textures by Tamayo's: An ode to home by former NBA chef Christopher Tamayo
In 2022, after the Golden State Warriors won their seventh NBA championship, their Filipino chef, Christopher Tamayo decided to come home and use his skills to further elevate Philippine dining.
He didn't just apply to be a chef at any local restaurant, however. Tamayo put up his own in Tagaytay; more specifically, in his childhood home.
Textures by Tamayo's is as much an ode to his flavorful childhood as it is a testament to the culinary skills he picked up while working as a chef for some of the world's most elite athletes.
While in the US, Tamayo studied at the Culinary Institute of America in an effort to gain culinary skills away from the shadow of the family's decades-old Tamayo's Catering empire, which continues to be run by its president and Tamayo's father, Steve.
Further solidifying his skills, Tamayo trained under celebrity Chef Tyler Florence, who runs Miller and Lux Restaurant at the Chase Center in California, home of Golden State Warriors.
"From the beginning, I told Chef Tyler Florence I'm only gonna be doing this (being an NBA chef) for three or four years. I [wasn't] in it for the money. I [did] it for myself, to prove to myself that I have skills," Tamayo told members of the press during his restaurant's media launch on May 21.
"Textures by Tamayo's is like a statement to myself that I think I do have skills. And it's time to spread the word and promote Filipino talent in the Philippines," he said. Besides, he continued, "I love to connect with people. What better way to do that than through their stomach?"
A tribute to childhood flavors
The first thing you notice about Textures by Tamayo's is that the building feels like someone's home. Swings in front, a sloping roof above, lush greenery all around, and an image of the Last Supper by the outdoor dining area—what can signify a Filipino house more than those elements?
Then you notice the huge, glass-walled kitchen the size of a comfortable bungalow with piles of copper pans on the shelves and a herb garden next to it. Your excitement builds up. Only a chef who knows what he's doing can successfully command a kitchen that massive.
Textures by Tamayo's sits on a one-hectare piece of land that also has farms growing dragon fruit, coconut, and pineapple.
"The menu of Textures by Tamayo's reflects my entire childhood," said Tamayo during his Tagaytay restaurant's media launch. "I wanted to pay tribute to my parents through the menu. That's why I wanted to have the restaurant in our home."
The ingredient as the hero
Instead of focusing on a specific cuisine, Tamayo chose to let his ingredients dictate the menu.
"It's a play with the textures of each ingredient, respecting the taste of each one," said Tamayo.
In the Philippines, "lahat tayo ma-sauce," he said. Tamayo, who also owns Café Intramuros and Sibol Manila, sought to break this cycle and demonstrate the novelty of enjoying an ingredient that's not doused in gravy.
As a result, his menu for Textures by Tamayo's reads like an international culinary romp, but with consistent ties to Tamayo's childhood and family.
One of the early winners is the Sichuan-Tsuyu Tofu as a starter. Tofu is the favorite food of Tamayo's mother Mila. He serves this dish with pickled mushrooms, furikake, and la-yu, a Japanese chili oil. The result is a bright, tangy bite that signals more fabulous things are coming.
The Cognac-Pecorino Cabbage demonstrates Tamayo's commitment to his ingredients. Wanting to elevate the humble repolyo, "na hindi pinapansin sa bulalo," said Tamayo, this one celebrates the leafy vegetable with a cognac glaze, pecorino, and almonds. If he wanted cabbage to finally get its spot in the sun, he got it.
Another unusual celebration of ingredients is the refreshing Arugula-Watermelon salad with black olives, goat feta, and mint.
"Familiar ingredients done with finesse," Tamayo expressed as he served the soups, both certified comfort foods: pumpkin and mushroom. There was nothing plain about them, though. The pumpkin soup was prepared with pepitas (edible pumpkin seeds), herbs, and brown butter; the mushroom soup with shimeji, enoki, and black pepper cream.
All the pasta dough is made in-house, adjusted to Tagaytay weather.
"If we're going to serve pasta, I want it to be fresh," Tamayo said, perfectly demonstrating it with his solid-but-bright Apple-Chestnut Agnolotti, which was served with brown butter, sage, and hazelnuts, and confident Black Truffle Cavatelli, with truffle cream, truffle oil, and parmesan.
Tamayo's chicken dishes are odes to his childhood and the Filipino palate.
The Truffle Havarti, with confit tomatoes, caper aioli, and truffle jus, calls to mind the bestselling chicken cordon bleu of Tamayo's Catering. Tamayo made this in the NBA, and it got a thumbs-up reception; a big deal since many of the players are vegetarians and vegans.
His slow-cooked California Roasted Chicken was a "no-brainer" for Tamayo as he said, "Everyone in the Philippines loves roasted chicken." This dish comes served with brassica puree duo, lemon, and extra-virgin olive oil.
At least two of Tamayo's dishes combine his eclectic palate. Bao-cos is an interesting starter that integrates his love for Binondo and Mexican food. Cebu Lechon Express, on the other hand, merges his Filipino favorites, Cebu lechon and Bicol express.
Cooked low and slow for 18 hours, the tender chunks of Cebu Lechon Express need zero lechon sauce. The flavor oozes from within.
Just like his pork dishes, the tomahawk steak delights without needing help from sauces. So that the premium cut of beef can shine by itself, it's put through minimal prep work. Tamayo seasons it with salt and pepper then cooks it in an Ooni oven for six to seven minutes each side. It is medium-rare perfection that is available only for pre-order at P12,000. (Give the restaurant a four-hour notice.)
Early kitchen work
"I am 33 years old but I can say I have 29 years of experience in the kitchen," said Tamayo. "I literally grew up in the kitchen."
At four years old, he was assigned to ice duty at his family's karinderya. He was tasked to shave ice for halo-halo from a huge block of ice, and wrap ice tubig for P2 a pop, and ice yelo, which went for P3 per piece.
His father exposed the Tamayo kids early to the family business, bringing them along to various catering jobs. Although they could see their son's talent in the kitchen, Steve and Mila didn't box their son in since he displayed many other skills, including doing street magic, playing the piano, dancing, entertaining, and yoyo, which allowed him to represent the Philippines at the 2012 Asia Pacific Yoyo Championships.
Now the president of Feast Gastronomy Group and executive chef of Textures by Tamayo's, Tamayo continues to apply a powerful lesson he learned at the Culinary Institute of America and his stint in the NBA: "Highlight the natural taste of ingredients and respect the flavors."
Mission accomplished.
Textures by Tamayo's is open from Wednesday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. It is located at 1975 Maglabe Drive, Barangay Asisan, Tagaytay City.