Balinsasayao's Twin Lakes: A beautiful underrated mountain destination near Dumaguete
Balinsasayao Twin Lakes Natural Park is not a common destination for Dumaguete-bound tourists, who usually opt for the neighboring province of Siquijor, or Negros’ Apo Island and Manjuyod sandbar. A tour of Valencia’s springs and waterfalls is also often offered by tour guides, as the municipality is just 20 minutes from the city.
For adventurers and nature lovers who enjoy the cool mountain air and serene, picturesque views, however, Balinsasayao is worth the trip. The park has twin crater lakes that mirror the lush greens of the surrounding forests and the Cuernos de Negros mountain range. The titular Balinsasayao is over double the size of the smaller lake Danao. Balinsasayao is also the Filipino name for different types of swiftlets that can be found in the park.
Abundant with native trees and diverse wildlife, with some endangered and only found in Negros and select islands in Visayas, the park’s over 8,000 hectares is the only remaining rainforest in Negros Island. It is also an important water source for the province. The park has been declared by the Philippine government as a protected area and recognized by the ASEAN governments as a heritage park.
Your nature and adventure itinerary in Balinsasayao
Getting to Balinsasayao is an adventure in itself, with a habal-habal (motorbike) ride or a private vehicle going up the mountains for at least 30 minutes. On a clear day, the ride offers views of the vivid greens of forests and blues of the sea, and the peak of Mt. Guintabon up ahead.
When you arrive at the park, the mountains and the clouds would seem ever closer, as Balinsasayao is over 800 meters above sea level.
On the way to the Twin Lakes, you will pass by Kabalin-an, a smaller body of water known for its Indian willows partially submerged in the waters.
After registering and paying the entrance fee of P50 at the park’s information center, you can head over to the restaurant and view deck. You can also make a side trip to the park’s fernery, which raises edible ferns, with some served as salad in the restaurant.
You can get a guide (P300 for two people) to walk with you through the park’s eco trails and towers for viewing. Boating is P250 (good for four people).
There are two towers for viewing the Twin Lakes, and the boat ride will make the trek to the towers shorter. The first one, called the watch tower, gives you the closest view of the two lakes. On one side of the tower is Balinsasayao, and on the other is Danao. From the lookout tower, you can see both lakes together, with Danao nearer the horizon.
Adventurers with more time can take a dip in Ulayan Falls, accessible via a boat ride and a hike.
The park is also recognized as an Important Bird and Biodiversity Area, and is perfect for birdwatching. You can rent binoculars for P200 to see them up close.
And it’s not just birds that are abundant, as native trees and plants flourish as well. Especially eye-catching are pitcher plants, colorful orchids, and other flowers.
You can also camp at the park. Tent rental is P300 good for 3 people, plus an overnight fee of P50 per person. A guide can also take your group for owl watching at P1500.
Tourists and locals conserving Balinsasayao
Your visit to the park supports the maintenance of the park and also the livelihood of locals who work as the park’s guides and staff. Along with the Protected Area Management Board, Balinsasayao is run by an association of farmers living around the area. Many of the park staff have been working there for over a decade.
Rico Mier, the president of the farmers’ association and a PAMB member, has taken up the mantle of leadership since 2005. Their association has also headed tree planting initiatives in the area.
The PAMB, which is also composed of representatives from the local and provincial government, barangays, agencies like the Department of Natural Resources, universities, NGOs, and people’s organizations like Balinsasayao’s farmers’ association, helps ensure the park’s sustainability in conservation and locals’ livelihood.
Balinsasayao’s recent recognition as an ASEAN Heritage Park also opens doors for greater support, including trainings to enhance the knowledge and skills of the park’s protectors.
Mier, who chose to forgo working abroad to focus on Balinsasayao’s conservation, said he is hopeful for the park’s future and is eager to see what lies ahead.
How to get there
From Dumaguete City, take a jeepney to Amlan or any northbound jeepney or bus passing by the Twin Lakes junction, also known as the La-laan Junction. From the junction, take a habal-habal (motorbike) going up to Balinsasayao. Total travel is approximately less than 2 hours, with 30 minutes to 1 hour for the jeep or bus, and 30-45 minutes for the motorbike.
Alternatively, you can rent a private car or vehicle, which will take you there faster. Some tourists include Balinsasayao in their itinerary for a guided Negros tour.