Backed or busted: Dermatologists weigh in on top 2025 skincare trends

Polydeoxyribonucleotide

PDRN garnered attention from skincare enthusiasts due to its apparent skin repair benefits. It also promotes collagen synthesis, enhances tissue regeneration, and helps modulate inflammation.

It is derived from the sperm cells of salmon trout or chum salmun. This fish's genital DNA has been linked to producing higher levels of collagen, which is similar to what many anti-aging products deliver.

PDS stated that the product is clinically backed, noting that it "may be beneficial for selected patients." However, they advised consulting with a PDS board-certified dermatologist first to determine if PDRN is appropriate for you.

Dermatologist Emmerson Vista told PhilSTAR L!fe that PDRN is used on patients through injectables or microneedling.

"It's a wound healing agent, so it can promote better wound healing if you apply this product to patients with open wound. Cosmetically, they say it also has benefits in terms of improvement in wrinkles, texture of the skin, and overall skin quality," he said.

He explained that the procedure "is not magic," and that you still need to use other products to get optimal results.

"It will take many weeks to see more improvement. The effectivity depends on the product and how it is delivered," he said. "After the procedure, patients might develop many bumps on the face from the injection site. There could be bruising and swelling. You want to limit the risk of infection by doing this procedure properly with antiseptic technique."

Azelaic acid

Another skincare ingredient that made waves in 2025 is azelaic acid, which is commonly used to treat acne due to its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.

It also "helps inhibit melanin production and normalizes abnormal skin cell growth."

PDS also gave its seal of approval to the product, explaining that it is "clinically proven to target conditions such as acne, rosacea, and melasma under dermatologic supervision."

Vista said that this product is normally used in a lower percentage, so it's best to cosult a dermatologist first if you want to use it.

"It can cause mild irritation at first. There can be a slight purging of your acne, and sometimes you cannot just combine this with any product. But for us dermatologists, this is very suitable for sensitive skin," he said.

"Its benefits includes acne control. It improves the progression of rosacea, it can lighten hyperpigmentation, and at the same time, also refine texture because of its anti-keratinizing activity and promotes more regular epidermal differentiation and renewal," he added.

Lymphatic face massage

Another trendy skincare hack making rounds is lymphatic face massage. This technique involves gentle, rhythmic movements to stimulate lymphatic drainage and relieve issues with the lymphatic system, as well as remove toxins and waste from the skin.

PDS noted that the trend "claims to reduce facial puffness, enhance contouring, and promote lymphatic drainage."

However, the group debunked its supposed benefits as they warned that "there is no strong evidence to support 'toxin detox' or long-term facial sculpting effects."

They also stressed that it "may also be unsuitable for some individuals."

Vista said that lymphatic face massages are normally part of facial procedures when going to the spa. However, he noted that you have "many other options to consider instead of doing lymphatic face massage."

"This is more of just relaxing your muscles and nothing more than that," he said.

Red light masks

Facial masks are not new to skincare routines, but using ones with near-infrared LED lights has been growing more popular.

According to PDS, specific wavelengths of red and near-infrared LED lights may stimulate collagen production and help reduce inflammation.

It neither determined the trend to be backed or busted, but instead urged the public to proceed with caution.

"Red light (approximately 630-700 nanometers) has evidence for skin benefits, but effectiveness depends on device quality, wavelength, and dose; all of which vary greatly among consumer products," PDS said.

Vista acknowledged that the mask is a popular device used in many cosmetic clinics. However, you must exercise caution when using it.

"It can be effective, it can be an adjunct treatment, but you need to be more cautious when you use this product because it can develop any skin reaction when used incorrectly," he said.

"When you do it on your face, you remove your makeup and sunscreen that can cause photo allergy reaction. Make sure it's properly strapped on your face, ensuring full comfort and contact. Normally, in clinics, they do it for around 10-20 minutes, around three to five times a week," he added.

Vista also advised that you should discontinue its use when you feel a burning or stinging sensation or when you have active wounds, infections, or skin complications.

K-beauty products

Thanks to the popularity of Korean culture in the Philippines, their beauty products have continued to dominate skincare trends among Filipinos.

The hype around them mainly centers on "innovative formulations and ingredients that appeal strongly to younger consumers and skincare enthusiasts."

PDS similarly warned the public to proceed with caution when using these products as not all of them are suitable for all skin types or skin conditions.

"Individualized skincare guidance from your board-certified dermatologist is essential," it said.

According to Vista, when buying K-beauty products, consider what you really need for your skin.

"These Korean products are packaged so nice, so colorful that it will convince you to buy them. But remember, you need something that will fit your skin type. If it's dry, if you have acne, if you have pigmentation like melasma, it doesn't mean that if you buy any Korean product, it will be effective for all your skin concern. Even with K-products, you can still develop irritation or allergy," he warned.

"Don't buy any K-products because of the hype. You need to maybe check with your dermatologist if this is really effective and applicable to your skin type," he added.